LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Upgrading valve train for big boost

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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 12:12 AM
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From: wyoming @ 12000 DA...
Default Upgrading valve train for big boost

Well im nearing my finished turbo setup and im already planning the next project.

I am going to play with it and learn to tune a bit on the stock motor and start saving a bit of money, My LT1 only has 10,000 miles on it right now so everything is new.

I want to pull the motor and do forged dish pistons with hellfire rings gapped accordingly for boost. Eagle H beam rods and ARP hardware/studs.

With that stuff I will be able to run a lot more boost... so i will need new springs and everything else. Im not sure of these motors weak links and what not so what all do I need to buy? I need to know what its going to cost to upgrade the valve train to handle lots of boost.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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bump?
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 12:47 AM
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So no one could tell me what all would need to be replaced to hold a fair amount of boost?
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 09:59 PM
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ttt --->bump
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons. contact bret bauer for valvetrain suggestions, his email is bret@bauer-racing.com
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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well i know what i got to do for bottom end and hardware... forged crank aint really needed though (i have a few threads of eveidence to argue that point)...

just springs, retainers, push rods.... in that area im not sure what i all need to upgrade to handle boost... lol.. im sure the more that is replaced the better.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 10:14 AM
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in that case just email bret he can set you up with a custom cam,springs, locks and retainers. for 500
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 11:00 PM
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it depends on your power goals.......and yes a good crank is needed if you make lots of power...and also you should put aftermarket mains all the way across, not just the middle three, because the main problem with lt1's and sbc's is with 1000 plus hp the blocks start to twist and the cylinders start to wear egg shaped and your motor with need rebuilds alot sooner... also if possible.. don't bore out the block at all have it hone to 5thou over or the next poss. size. it will help the integrety of the block, and the power you get from a bigger bore is not much anyway..... oh i forgot...i would go with soild roller valve train and shaft mounts... when turbos come on the motor revs very fast and you might like the extra rpm and time solids and shaft mounts give you.

Last edited by otherwhitemeat; Feb 28, 2007 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 06:43 PM
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From: wyoming @ 12000 DA...
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Maybe in the big picture... but this point we are talking 500hp.... So mains and crank will be fine. Good rods and hardware with the forged pistons lowering the compression... 500 hp should be fairly easy. Biggest problem would be finding a good STRONG forged dish piston that will get me good low compression with these small CC heads... and i don't want to drop a lot of money.

I have never had a car really of this caliber and of course... im not very old. lol. So i will start with stock heads (possibly port matched) with the goods in it. Forgerd dish pistons and H-beams with good hardware (head and main studs too)... and then my turbo kit on top for hopefully around 500 rwhp at least

Plus with the turbo i'm limited to the magical number 1000 anyways. So somewhere is the 800whp is probly all i ever will attain.

I know you have a insane camaro.... but I think without spending a fuckton of money i couldn't do much to get past 800rwhp... and that cost a lot in the first place. You know im doing a SBC... just got to find the right combo of parts for the right amount of cash to make good power.. (with the good stuff.. half fill... splayed mains...forged everything... Pro Darts? lol)

Last edited by Dragframe; Mar 1, 2007 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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gotcha.....i would suggest the soild roller and shaft mount stuff though....it will be alot easier to drive
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 03:18 AM
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no need for a solid roller for a turbo'd car
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