What are your results? You have very similar mods..

 

Well if you haven't yet hit your peak and are still climbing at 6800rpm, i'm thinking your shift points should be about 7K or so honestly to get the most out of your combo..

 

If you're not making your peak by 6500 I'd say your cam is a bit too big...If you're going to peak at 6800plus you'll need more rear gear to get you close that rpm by them end of the track...And you really want a converter to stall 500-700 rpm below the torque peak of the motor. Plus as others have said you dont want to see 6800 rpm very often with a stock bottom end...FWIW Eric Bradby and Joe Overton told me once that with LT1 castings anything over .570" lift is a waste...Your heads flow way better than my E.B. Ported LT1s, but as someone said earlier we are not racing flow benches...

I wouldn't run it too much more with that 14.5:1 A/F, that's pretty lean...Good luck with evrything...Get the tune right and try the track and look at your mph...That will tell you whats going on...ET is a function of traction, so don't be too concerned with that part yet...

--Alan

 

with all my old crap i had edelbrock shorties, flowmaster, and a crane 227 cam i dynod 309 hp 363 tq. couldnt run quicker than a 13.7 on stock tires and htiitng the rev limiter on the 2>3 shift.

now i have a as&m 1 3/4 mids, magnaflow catback, bigger cam, msd opti, and mickey thompson et streets. ran the car 4 times it still hit the rev limiter even though i swore i fixed that problem and i ran a 13.2, 13.8, 13.4, and a 13.8 at 104. so go figure the car wouldve probably ran 13.2 with just the mickeys and the old setup anyway. this piece of **** should be in te 12s but refuses. dollar for dollar i probably have the highest costing shittiest running LT1 out there. not to mention it will not cut a 60 under 2 seconds even if it had a ****** rocket pushing it.

sorry folks just had to vent some frustration.

 

have you compression tested the engine?

 

no i havent. how is that done is that something i can do or is that another big bill for this money sucking slocuh i call my car.

 

You can do it,need to buy a compression tester costs about 15-50$

The compression test is to see if the piston rings are tight to hold the pressure of the flame to produce power

 

Most people have crappy combos that result in shitty track #'s!

 

Actually more people suck at driving, than the crappy combo's. not to mention half of them aren't even setup for drag racing...

 

i need to know what a bad driver is. what is considered a bad driver in an automatic? for a manual the margin for error is greater but can someone break down bad driving in an auto. maybe i can stop blaming the car if i fit the description of a bad driver.

 

Ari G seemed to give you a good idea about testing your compression. Im in this boat too..

 

Thanks for the info Alan, I think you hit a lot of this right on. I am more than ready for a more ideal cam, but the shop is working hard on getting mine to run right and see what they can get out of it so Im waiting to see the final results and run the car before I stress too much about the #'s. I already have a few good size comp cams in mind though..

 

The cam isn't the problem for it not putting out the #'s, you need to find out whats wrong before you go changing out the #'s. And if your tuner is still working on trying to tune it, I would try to find a new tuner ASAP, it doesn't take that long to tune a car....

 

My car sat for 6 months and I just got it back and running about a week ago. It was already tuned but at the moment its still not running right as mentioned (A/F,timing..) the car is waiting to get another tune and then I will know. He's very busy but reputable in the STL area.