changed to 2.0 valves,now have to replace springs
changed to 2.0 valves,now have to replace springs we went from a 1.94 to a 2.0 int and 1.50 to 1.56 manley valves and when the valve job was done , they sank the valves to get a better cut and now he said the springs need to be .200 longer . these are comp 918 springs that are new and now are not going to work. it there any way around changeing spring s or shimming them .200?
DOes any one offer a 2.0 1.56 combo that is shorter then stock?
IF changing the springs is the only option then what spring part number will it take that is taller tehn the 918?
DOes any one offer a 2.0 1.56 combo that is shorter then stock?
IF changing the springs is the only option then what spring part number will it take that is taller tehn the 918?
The Beehives are already intended for a 1.8 installed height when the LT1 stock is more like 1.700.
Something aint right here, a lot of something and in the end I think you are screwed because you used an incompetent shop.
Some combination of seats, locks, shims should make the 918s usable, if not they used MUCH longer valves or really messed up the heads like to the point where they should replace them.
Something aint right here, a lot of something and in the end I think you are screwed because you used an incompetent shop.
Some combination of seats, locks, shims should make the 918s usable, if not they used MUCH longer valves or really messed up the heads like to the point where they should replace them.
.200" is a huge amount to blame on "sinking the valves for a better cut". I would believe .020" in which case you could shim easily. Check the Comp Cams page - look under valvesprings - read to the right on the chart and it will tell you the righ shim.
Jim
Jim
Well they are going from 1.80 to 2.0 and its supposed to be because the heads have already been cut on 2 other times with 1.94 valves. Just need to know the right way to fix them. the shop is a good shop ( wall to wall in Livingston) and he said it is nothing you just have to change to a taller valve spring. I just dont want to run into valve train problems fixxing this. I dont want a spring that will experience valve float at 6000 rpms.
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Verdad Gallardo Ronnie definitely knows what he's talking about and his valve job is, for lack of a better word, awesome. He's gained over 40cfm from just the valve job. Anyway, if he told you that you need taller springs and he doesn't know where to get them, then I don't know.
Taubr Unit: Yes, I had the +.050" locks to give an extra .050" to the install height.
It's the thick comp locators that decrease the install height, hence the taller locks.
Did he mention if you could do shorter valves at all?
Taubr Unit: Yes, I had the +.050" locks to give an extra .050" to the install height.
It's the thick comp locators that decrease the install height, hence the taller locks.
Did he mention if you could do shorter valves at all?
.200 I would be worried about wether the heads would flow anymore unless they did massive chamber work too.
If the shop is really that good they should be telling you what they need to do to make things work not looking to get info from you.
Also understand we don't race flowbenches and that for a flowbench head the valvjob can be manipulated to provide massive flow gains but will not actually work on the motor because they wont last.
Honestly the best thing that can be happening here is that you missunderstood them somehow.
If the shop is really that good they should be telling you what they need to do to make things work not looking to get info from you.
Also understand we don't race flowbenches and that for a flowbench head the valvjob can be manipulated to provide massive flow gains but will not actually work on the motor because they wont last.
Honestly the best thing that can be happening here is that you missunderstood them somehow.
the chambers were blended along with the bowls. He is not asking me what to do , I am asking to make sure this is the right thing to do before I have him order new springs. THis guys knows his ****, he does some very high end spec motors .
I have never heard of sinking a valve that far and what I wanted to know on here was there any one else that had to do this to fit a 2.0 int valve.
I am not trying and dont want any one to be discredited as this really is a fine *** machine shop. TOp quality work comes from this shop. I have not actually talked to THe guy, a freind that built the engine is the one talking to him and there is no misunderstanding, it is .200 sunk in.
I was just wondering would it be worth it to get new seats put in for bigger valves to where the 2.0 's would not have to be sunk in.
I have never heard of sinking a valve that far and what I wanted to know on here was there any one else that had to do this to fit a 2.0 int valve.
I am not trying and dont want any one to be discredited as this really is a fine *** machine shop. TOp quality work comes from this shop. I have not actually talked to THe guy, a freind that built the engine is the one talking to him and there is no misunderstanding, it is .200 sunk in.
I was just wondering would it be worth it to get new seats put in for bigger valves to where the 2.0 's would not have to be sunk in.
Should not have had to go .200 in to do 2.00 valves but now that it is I think new seats is a reasonable solution, BUT there goes that valvejob.
2.00 should have worked just fine on stock seats.
2.00 should have worked just fine on stock seats.
Sinking the valve job is BAD,it makes the short side radius shorter,makes the chamber bigger and any shop that wants to sink it .200 know doesn't what they are doing.You should send the heads to someone who does.
