Ive run the Meziere EWP for a few years. Had a couple fail too. But if you watch your gauge your fine. Ive never had a problem arise from the pump failing. If your gonna sit in traffic, and watch your temp gauge climb without shutting down your a friggin idiot.

I've been on my CSR for about 30K. Not one issue. If it goes out i'll buy another, alot easier to swap and hell whats there to do with these cars except work on them and enjoy them while ya can

I've seen people burn there motor to the ground over a stat sticking so any cheap $15 part can do it. if you dont watch your gauges in these cars your not watchig your butt

I think if I really wanted the EWP for DD I would at least put on idiot light and a buzzer that would go off at a given temp.

I wanted to get really creative I would what some racer do, and that is put on an engine kill at a given temperature.

i do keep a close eye on my gauges, so if it did fail i would catch it quite quickly and obviously shut down immediately. i think i am going to go for it, and see if i can't get the light and buzzer set up as well for added protection. so to you folks running them how much of a seat of the pants difference do you feel? and for a daily driver i just assumed the HD 55 gph would be better than the 42 gph unit is this correct? more flow=better right?

I know when i was getting my coolant issue worked out with the new motor( wasnt bleeding it right) the car got hot and it wouldnt start after it got hot. I think there is a way to get the car to shut down if temps get to high.

Whoa...that's a little harsh! Depending on the situation shutting down in traffic could make you an even bigger idiot. I would rather repair an engine than cause a accident.

When it happened to me, it was my first time running hot with an aluminum headed engine. Based on my experience with iron headed old school sbc's, I was shocked that any damage occured. Since traffic was barely moving in my case, I probably could have safely shut down without making it to the side, but I made a poor decision. Does that make me a friggin idiot?

i run one with no problem

Yeah the alarm things sounds like the way to go. We need to hunt down that guy, and at least get a DIY if he doesn't want to make them.

email Spartus@ThomasFish.com
He makes a kit that has a green led light that stays lit as long as power is being supplied to the pump. A red led light will light up if flow stops in case the pump fails. He operates from ImpalaSS.com
He mainly makes them for the LT1 crowd but says several with LS1s have bought them and used them w/out fitment issues. They are $60.

Im running one with my Double Roller and havent had an issue yet. I do keep my eyes on that gauges all the time. I have always been like that!

Razor_
I wasnt directing that towards you. Just idiots in general. I agree that sometimes it can be dangerous to just shut down. Like in the middle lane on a 3-lane or more highway.

But you'd be amazed what kinda room you can get to veer off the road if you flick on your hazards. I use my hazards to get people off my ass, just flick them on and watch the 'drafter' ease back away from you. People to the sides of me even slow down when I do it.

My apologese for coming off "harshly"... I thought I was just pointing out the obvious common sense answer to the topic starters questions.

To the topic starter, I did have a EWP start leaking just before teh 1yr warranty ended... I bought a new one and sent the original one back to Meziere for a rebuild. Now I have a perfectly good one sitting on the shelf in case the one thats on there has problems. That allows me to keep driving the car while the bad pump gets fixed by Meziere.

I have one on my wifes 94 Impala SS (DD). We had one issue, the inline fuse. There is no question that you use a realy system and keep an extra couple of fuses in the glovebox. It came with a 20 amp, I put now have a 30 amp in it. It uses a 30 amp relay so either the fuse will blow or the realy will trip.

A street pump is rated to a life span os @ 3500 hrs. That equates to @ 45,000 miles. A street pump also pumps @ 35 gpm all the time. That equates to a mechanical pump running at the engine rpms of 6200. You do the math.

An easy way to watch the guages is use a gauge pod with a temp gauge in it. It's always right in your face. Your SES light should come on @ 240 anyway. No disrespect to anyone, but that's why they're called idiot lights, so you don't make an idotic mistake. I did a time or 2, (damn traffic, radio, cell phone, etc)

Not questioning your math at all but I wonder as to why some people w/ the EWP overheat in stop and go traffic IF that pump is 35 gpm and that being equivalent to 6200rpm something else is wrong then.

The overheating in stop and go traffic is due to no airflow thru the radiator, doesn't matter how much coolant is flowing if there is no air flow to take the heat away.

And the temp climb would happen with or without the EWP in such a case...

I noticed that my car ran cooler in city driving conditions, and few degrees warmer on the interstate.

Now that the A/C is out it takes forever to warm up!

If your cooling fans are not working or if you have the wrong water/coolant mix, absolutely.
Same issue no matter what kind of pump you run.
A DD should be able to handle hot weather and slow traffic with either setup.

Now, if the pump (mechanical or electric) fails in traffic no amount of cooling fans will save you.