LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

SC procharger or non sc?

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Old Apr 29, 2007 | 10:32 PM
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Default SC procharger or non sc?

Buying a D-1 or D-1sc procharger for my 96 T/A.. Who has experience with prochargers and can guide me to making the decision? Is it better to tap into the oil pan or have a self contained procharger? The only bad thing that I have heard about the self contained is they leak and blow seals but my car is definitely not a daily driver. I Might put maybe 3,000 miles on it a YEAR. Any advice my motor will probably not take more than 12 psi but I plan on upgrading boost in the future and I want the power now why I have the money to get forced induction.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 08:13 AM
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I'd fortify your pistons rods etc. before you add a s/c if you are looking at adding anything over 10psi. Depending on mileage you are also looking at injectors,fuel pump etc. That's if you want to do it right...What exactly are you trying to do ?
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 08:32 AM
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Avoid the hassle and just get an SC model. You really cant tap the oil pan (sheet metal) so its best not to mess with it.

The SC models only seem to blow seals when you do alot of long trips and build alot of heat inside them. Heat means pressure, pressure blows seals.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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you want a Vortech s-trim supercharger $2000

or a Full Procharger Kit with everything you need with intercooler almost New..for $2300....Thats a killer deal..

pm me for more info
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 95zpro
I'd fortify your pistons rods etc. before you add a s/c if you are looking at adding anything over 10psi. Depending on mileage you are also looking at injectors,fuel pump etc. That's if you want to do it right...What exactly are you trying to do ?
I figure I'd go ahead with getting the D-1sc because I have the money now and future plans of running more boost I really don't wanna buy a P-1sc because it limits my future boost plans down you know have you had any problems with yours? My engine has 48,000 miles on it and like I said I may drive it 1 night a week. We figure it can handle 12 psi with that dual twin highflow intercooler. I am pretty sure I have a 9:5:1 motor but I have seen 10:0:1 motors run on 10-12 psi boost and be O.K. One day my engine will blow but when it does I will build the engine right and still have the procharger to do it with.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by phantomLT1
I figure I'd go ahead with getting the D-1sc because I have the money now and future plans of running more boost I really don't wanna buy a P-1sc because it limits my future boost plans down you know have you had any problems with yours? My engine has 48,000 miles on it and like I said I may drive it 1 night a week. We figure it can handle 12 psi with that dual twin highflow intercooler. I am pretty sure I have a 9:5:1 motor but I have seen 10:0:1 motors run on 10-12 psi boost and be O.K. One day my engine will blow but when it does I will build the engine right and still have the procharger to do it with.
Don't bother with the P series. Tapping the oil pan really isn't that bigga deal. I know the space constraints suck but its not that bad. I've never been a big fan of self contained units but thats just my opinion. Depending on the way you go, after you tap the pan (as already said, can't really tap but more so welding or "gluing" a fitting) just use a good expoy or JB weld on the fitting and you'll be fine. Personally I wouldn't push 12 psi on 10 to 1 unless I was running race gas all the time. Even if your tune is spot on, gas varies so you could fill up with a bad tank and all it takes is one good blast and you'll blow the motor. I blew up a stock motor on 6 lbs of boost on a nice cool night while racing a bike back in the day.
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