Wow, after only having my 93 Z running for about a year and only limited driving the brand new OEM Optispark has gone bad. Yesterday while driving my Z the same problems started to occur when the first Opti went out. I believe the car has less than 5000 miles on it since I replaced the Opti and rebuilt the LT1. Good old code 36. I guess I should have listened to the guy at Summit Racing when he stated I would be purchasing a new Opti about once a year. I think I will look at different options. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

This is why I will swap to a 6.0 LS1 when the time comes to rebuild the motor in my car . No more optis for me !

 

My only suggestions are to stop getting it wet, and put the 95 up cap on so you can run the vent hoses. Should go for a LONG time with no problem.

 

You could put a MSD unit on. One thing it does is give a free air hose for the older style of Opti's like ares. I have had my opti in for two years now. It is just hit or miss with it some people have had theirs on for a long time others once a year thing.

 

how do you know if the fuel pump is going bad as opposed to the opti? i got a fuel gauge reading and it showed low fuel pressure before starting, while starting, and idle....all low...im assuming fuel pump right?

 

To the OP: If you've got a DTC 36, I'd double check continuity between your Optispark's electrical connector and the corresponding PCM pinout. I can look up the pin numbers if you need. It'd be a shame to throw in a new Optispark if it's just a $2.00 electrical connection failure.

That, and make sure to seal your new Optisparks with RTV. I converted my factory 1994 Opti to use vent-lines as well, but it's probably easier to just get an MSD or Dynaspark unit -- if you've got the cash laying around.

What was it reading?

If you look over by the PCM / passenger side hood strut, you should find a short, loose white wire with a black plastic connector on the end. This is a fuel pump prime connector. Connect that wire to the positive battery terminal or the remote power distribution bolt, and it'll trip the relay to run the pump non-stop.

Doing this, you should have roughly 42-47psi at the rail. Alternatively, with the car running at idle, it should drop by several psi, usually into the high 30's.

I wouldn't rule out a clogged fuel filter -- change that first.

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