LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Had a wreck some major help please

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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 04:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by thebufenator
its a LCA.........everyone in the F-body world calls it a lower control arm.......
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 06:21 PM
  #22  
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from summit...

These Edelbrock rear trailing arms are manufactured from cold-rolled, rectangular steel tubing with .120 in. wall thickness for maximum strength. They will eliminate wheel hop and increase your vehicle's traction. Other features include greasable, fluted polyurethane bushings and an attractive black powdercoated finish.
From the book I used in Steering and Suspension class... (Written by James D. Halderman and Chase D. Mitchell, Jr.) AUTOMOTIVE STEERING, SUSPENSION, and ALIGNMENT Page 110.

TRAILING ARM REAR SUSPENSIONS

A trailing arm extends from a frame crossmember located ahead of the rear axle back to the axle housing or a wheel knuckle. Trailing arms run parallel to the centerline of the chassis. See FIgure 5-7. (a picture of a TRAILING ARM location). A trailing arm mounts to the frame with bushings, which allows the arm to pivot as the wheel rides over bumps. Some rear suspensions use two sets of trailing arms, one set positioned higher in the chassis than the other. Although the arms in this type of arrangement are commonly referred to as the upper control arms and lower control arms, they are usually called trailing arms. The word trailing applies to any link where the supported member trails the arm. Trailing arms may be used to brace either a driven or non-driven solid rear axle against front-to-rear forces, but they do not provide much resistance to side-to-side, or lateral, forces.
ok, so we're both right lol

Last edited by ThoR294; Jul 23, 2007 at 07:17 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 07:40 PM
  #23  
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Hey bud that stinks about your car. I work at a body shop and I personaly think you need to carry it to a frame/body shop and have them take some measurements. Within a couple of minutes a good shop should be able to tell you what is bent and more than likely shoot you a free estimate. Do your self a favor and don't drive it and please don't be opening and SLAMING the hatch shut lol you might be able to adjust it out "your latch might of move". Oh yeah aluminum wheels bend easy.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 07:45 PM
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I lost it one day and jumped a curb and did some dukes of hazzard crap and barely missed a pole. Busted both front wheels, fucked the rotors, and a bunch of other little ****. Frame re-alignment, LS1 rotors, and 4 Z06 wheels later, she was back runnin good.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 07:47 PM
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Hell I think all wheels can bend easy, I managed to kill a Crager S/S wheel back in my "I'm a retarded High School kid" days.
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by camar0corey
Hell I think all wheels can bend easy, I managed to kill a Crager S/S wheel back in my "I'm a retarded High School kid" days.
haha.

that reminds me of these 2 kids (brothers ugly is what they went by). they decided to try to be cool in the rain in the foxbody mustang, and nailed a curb with their drivers rear wheel... bent the **** out of the wheel.

They put the donut ON THE BACK (mistake #1), and they didnt bother to check the axle, if it was bent at all or not, so they try to drive away... lol. can only guess what happens
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 11:28 AM
  #27  
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Alright thanks for the info fellas...i have a body shop with a frame machine or somethin (my dad knows em) thats like less than an 1/8th a mile down the road from me...oh and what would be the best control arms to buy like aftermarket wise. Hell if im gonna get some new ones might as well get some decent ones.

Last edited by LT1Drew; Jul 25, 2007 at 11:28 AM. Reason: g
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