Pacesetter Header Install help!!!
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Pacesetter Header Install help!!! Hello fellow LTX people I am having some trouble with my project which includes Pacesetter Amour Coated Headers and a coated Pacesetter Y-pipe with a custom made turn-down. I have got some diagrams from the chevy dealer but I still need some more details espeically from people who have done this before. My questions are 1) Is there any extra sealer needed for the gasket to be applied to the header flange or to the head itself (I have bought stock header gaskets)? 2) In what pattern does the STAGE 8 locking header bolts need to be tightened? 3) How much foot pounds does the locking headers bolts need to be tightened to? 4) Do you guys have any diagrams to help me see the process of installing these headers (or good side views of the LT1 engine)? 5) Is there a site that I can go to so that I can get some more helpful diagrams? 6) Do I have to clean off anything from the stock manifold or the stock head to acheive a good clean seal? 7) Should I TRUE my headers (look for rough or uneven areas on the header flange then sand accordlying)? 8) i would also like all other foot pound amounts for anything relating to the installation process of installing Long Tube headers on a 1997 Z28 A4. This sums up all my questions with my header install, thanks for helping me out. Devin
#1 nope no sealant required if you are using the stock metal manifold gaskets keep in mind you will have to drill holes in the new gaskets because the stock manifolds use the outside mounting holes at the front and rear of the cylinder head and the new headers use the holes closer to the exhaust ports on the front and rear of the cylinder head
#2 usually with something like this you want to start with the holes in the center cylinders 3 and 5 on the drivers side and 4 and 6 on the passenger side there are two bolts there and then you work your self out to the ends of the head
#3 well you will probably have to wing this one because i dont know of anyone that was able to fit a torque wrench in the engine bay to torque all 6 bolts on each side of the engine, you just have to get them good and tight and then make sure they're still tight after a couple heat cycles
#4 i dont know if any diagrams will help you install headers but you could try www.shbox.com on the drivers side you are going to have to remove the steering shaft, and possibly even the oil filter if you have a longer style one on there such as the AC delco 1218 on the passenger side you will of course need to have the alternator out of there, along with the starter.
you shouldn't have to clean much of anything off of the cylinder head flange just make sure there isn't any crap on there so the gaskets will seal on the headers, same with the headers you shouldn't have to do any sanding on the flange just make sure they're true.
#2 usually with something like this you want to start with the holes in the center cylinders 3 and 5 on the drivers side and 4 and 6 on the passenger side there are two bolts there and then you work your self out to the ends of the head
#3 well you will probably have to wing this one because i dont know of anyone that was able to fit a torque wrench in the engine bay to torque all 6 bolts on each side of the engine, you just have to get them good and tight and then make sure they're still tight after a couple heat cycles
#4 i dont know if any diagrams will help you install headers but you could try www.shbox.com on the drivers side you are going to have to remove the steering shaft, and possibly even the oil filter if you have a longer style one on there such as the AC delco 1218 on the passenger side you will of course need to have the alternator out of there, along with the starter.
you shouldn't have to clean much of anything off of the cylinder head flange just make sure there isn't any crap on there so the gaskets will seal on the headers, same with the headers you shouldn't have to do any sanding on the flange just make sure they're true.
Originally Posted by blk97z28
Hey thanks so are the 2 outside bolts that the original manifold uses being used anymore? What do I do with these other outside holes?
Some additional info for question #1
Use "Ultra Copper" instead of regular header gaskets. It's what I used on mine at the recommendation of a freind who races multiple cars (LSX-LTX). No leaks!
Use "Ultra Copper" instead of regular header gaskets. It's what I used on mine at the recommendation of a freind who races multiple cars (LSX-LTX). No leaks!
Yeah you'll have a couple extra bolt holes. If you're using stock style gaskets you can put bolts in those "extra" holes to hold the gasket to the head for you while you line up the header. Makes things much easier.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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Well I started taking my car apart today, my other question is all the bolts straight onto the manifold? Are there any underneath the manifold like on the bottom?
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Ok, First remove the manifolds. Swear alot. Second before you install the new headers, clean the block surface. Make sure you copper-coat the gaskets. Torque is not relevant since you cant get a torque wrench into the spots you need to get into. Youll be lucky to get an open end wrench into some spots. Tighten the bolts after you run the engine a few times. And if you get stock replacements from Pacesetter, youll have to replace the steering box. Fun Fun Fun...... At least thats how my Pacesetter shorty setup turned out. Have patience when getting the headers in. Thats the only way.
