LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Le2 or Le3 help me build motor

Old Sep 9, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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Default Le2 or Le3 help me build motor

ok i have a 1994 firehawk lt1 m6 all stock with 158,000 miles that ran 13.8
but i am wanting to build it now i definetely want either the Le2 or Le3 package. unless you guys know of a better package for me i have $5,000
to spend on it what do you guys think i should get/do to my motor with those funds i am shooting for 400-500 H.P. dailly driver but dont Know were to start so please let me know what you would do for 5k thanks
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 06:57 AM
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You will definately need a supporting bottom end for an LE2 or LE3. I suggest talk to Lloyd and see what he suggests. His stuff is top notch.
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 07:33 AM
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158k miles you need to be thinking about a shortblock as well.

All stock I'm assuming you have no supporting modifications, no headers, no tune, no clutch, no tires, etc.

Figure alot more than $5k if you're going to get into heads/cam.

Start with bolt-ons and go from there.
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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You could do an LE1 WITH THE BOLT ONS and a refresh of the factory shortblock
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 08:58 AM
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Take out the LT1.
Sell it.

Buy an LS2 GTO motor off ebay, 400hp/400tq, for $1800-$2400, like THIS.

Massive cam and bolt ons.
That is what I want to do anyways.
Not only do you get a fresh motor with low miles, your packin LSx technology so when you smoke a nice LS1 Fbody, you can say "its just a bolt on LT1"

Last edited by burnzilla; Sep 10, 2007 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Can't seen any reason for a sound engine to not be fine with heads and cam. The weak link in the lt1 and ls1 are the hypercrap pistons but this is mostly a problem with forced induction past 8psi or so. Lt1 engines have also took big shots of nitrous like 175 hp on stock motors. I would not be too worried. Why would adding heads and cam make it necessary to rebuild or forge up the motor. Stock lt1 cranks are pretty strong. Sure if you are down compression and blowing out lots of oil it would be good to rebuilt and if you are rebuilding might as well throw in better parts if you can afford to or go bigger displacment. And I am not a big fan of the new tech motors even though have a ls1 currently. Ls1 can have piston slap problems and the lt1 is more torquey around town in stock displacements with stock gear ratios. LS1 is also one ugly looking engine stock! And it don't sound very good either with no cats like the mean lt1. I love my lt1. That said I am going 6.0 iron block in my 99 ta twin turbo build.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Can't seen any reason for a sound engine to not be fine with heads and cam. The weak link in the lt1 and ls1 are the hypercrap pistons but this is mostly a problem with forced induction past 8psi or so. Lt1 engines have also took big shots of nitrous like 175 hp on stock motors. I would not be too worried. Why would adding heads and cam make it necessary to rebuild or forge up the motor. Stock lt1 cranks are pretty strong. Sure if you are down compression and blowing out lots of oil it would be good to rebuilt and if you are rebuilding might as well throw in better parts if you can afford to or go bigger displacment. And I am not a big fan of the new tech motors even though have a ls1 currently. Ls1 can have piston slap problems and the lt1 is more torquey around town in stock displacements with stock gear ratios. LS1 is also one ugly looking engine stock! And it don't sound very good either with no cats like the mean lt1. I love my lt1. That said I am going 6.0 iron block in my 99 ta twin turbo build.

Because turning 6200+ on a 158k stock will =
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Can't seen any reason for a sound engine to not be fine with heads and cam. The weak link in the lt1 and ls1 are the hypercrap pistons but this is mostly a problem with forced induction past 8psi or so. Lt1 engines have also took big shots of nitrous like 175 hp on stock motors. I would not be too worried. Why would adding heads and cam make it necessary to rebuild or forge up the motor. Stock lt1 cranks are pretty strong. Sure if you are down compression and blowing out lots of oil it would be good to rebuilt and if you are rebuilding might as well throw in better parts if you can afford to or go bigger displacment. And I am not a big fan of the new tech motors even though have a ls1 currently. Ls1 can have piston slap problems and the lt1 is more torquey around town in stock displacements with stock gear ratios. LS1 is also one ugly looking engine stock! And it don't sound very good either with no cats like the mean lt1. I love my lt1. That said I am going 6.0 iron block in my 99 ta twin turbo build.
158k mile bearings ftl.. that's why.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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Well whatever. NA engines with good springs should have no problem doing 6200 rpm age of the bearings has nothing to do with it. If the engine has good compression then can't see the big deal. Timing chain could use replacement in higher mileage motors also of course if they are stretched and not saying its not a good idea at 150,000 miles or even 100,000 miles to go in there and freshen or strengthen. Just that seem some pretty tough old lt1s in my time. Great engine expect for the stupid opti and intake manifold leaks.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by burnzilla
Take out the LT1.
Sell it.

Buy an LS2 GTO motor off ebay, 400hp/400tq, for $1800-$2400, like THIS.

Massive cam and bolt ons.
That is what I want to do anyways.
Not only do you get a fresh motor with low miles, your packin LSx technology so when you smoke a nice LS1 Fbody, you can say "its just a bolt on LT1"
thats a pretty sweet idea.. kinda wish i went that route
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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Id say $5K isnt enough to do LS1/2 swap. unless you find a 4gen ls1 wrecked and swap EVERYTHING. but then you got an eng. thats only a little faster then stock LT1. you'd still need another $5K to make the LS1 fast with all thebolt ons to support it.

anyways, I agree. 150K engine and higher rpms does equal death. it happend to me at 78K miles after head/cam swap. never found any reason when I dissasembled it carefully to try to find the cause. my bearings just wore out. thats all there was to it. problem is, thats a TON of work to do might as well plan on rebuilding the short block to have a good base to build off of and not doin the same work over again if it does wear out FAST from there.

chris
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
age of the bearings has nothing to do with it. If the engine has good compression then can't see the big deal
Keep tellin' yourself that...

Besides, good luck making any power with an LE2/LE3 cam spinning to only 6200 rpm. My LE3 pulls like a freight train from 6000+
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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well thanks for the help guys but i really like the lt1 except opti-spark (plus i like haveing the underdog motor compared to LS cars but if i have to i will stroke it. so if you have any ideas on what would be the best package if you where going to spend 5k on it whether its with or with out lloyed elliot H/C thanks
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
Keep tellin' yourself that...

Besides, good luck making any power with an LE2/LE3 cam spinning to only 6200 rpm. My LE3 pulls like a freight train from 6000+




werd
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 04:10 PM
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so the le heads flow better than edelbrock or afr castings?
i haveno le heads exp.,
last set of lt heads i had were lt4's ported by sam
grad. but that was along time ago.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
so the le heads flow better than edelbrock or afr castings?
i haveno le heads exp.,
.

no no, but he's proven to be one of the ones that can get the max outof a set of factory LT1 castings. AI is the other one that comes to mind that people swear by too. but I guess there a bit more expensive. I think afr's are top dog still, but very expensive.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Irocss85
Id say $5K isnt enough to do LS1/2 swap.
If you get a 400hp LS2 for 2K, that leaves $3000 left over.
And many of those motors come with the wiring and everything you need, sometimes even the tranny for another $500-$600.
Or course some other things will be needed to complete the swap and get the motor/tranny in, but not that much stuff.

Originally Posted by Irocss85
but then you got an eng. thats only a little faster then stock LT1. you'd still need another $5K to make the LS1 fast with all the bolt ons to support it.
What?

An LT1 will put down 260rwhp.
An LS2 in an Fbody would put down around 350 rwhp.
Thats 90 more hp, and LSX technology.

You definitely mid 12's right from the get go.
A cam, stall and bolt ons and youre looking at 11's with a fresh, low mile LS2.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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I agree if you can go LSx motor than that is a great way to go.
The motor in that auction though said $3500 reserve, came with only the crank pulley, no accessories or sensors. Start adding up the accessories you would want, the sensors, flywheel, coil packs, etc..... I think you would easily break $5k to do a LS2 swap or better.

If you look at LS1's though thats a different story. Then yeah you could probably get everything you would need for the swap around $3k give or take.

Full exhaust $1k
Nitro Daves plate kit and nitrous accessories $1k
That leaves you $3k to get the shortblock rebuilt and stick a cam in it with the other supporting mods you would need. Well thats my quick take on it.

Hows everything else on your car holding up? Trans/rear end good? Make sure you can sink the whole $5k in the motor without having to worry about anything else. I don't have $5k to spend myself, but I have my new engine sitting around and I know I can't afford to fix stuff as it breaks, so I'm in no rush.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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but your forgetting all the little stuff in between that make swaps VERY expensive. kmember, motor mounts, wiring, pcm, accesories, different torque conv, trans, coolant hoses, radiator, SOO much stuff just to make it work, let alone make it faster. you could spend $4K and end up with a STOCKish ls1, or $4K and have a pretty built LT1 engine cause everything your spending goes towards making power, instead of making it work first, then with the little thats left things like basic speed parts for LS1 cars like headers and bolt ons. a bolt on LS1 car is generally a high/mid12 car. except for those lightened cars that are basically track cars.

I say no way are you goin to get an LS2 for 2K either. junkyards know what they have. not that its impossible, but very tough to find a deal when your ready to go now.
and if he found an LS2, the harness would be almost worthless. unless he has the skills/time required to retrofit it into his stock harness/gauges. tons of work there.

make any sense?
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 10:17 PM
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ok, last thing I want to add here to keep from being redundant.
dont forget LSx stuff is almost always more expensive.
looks like your complete drivetrain is stock? if so, you'll eat a large portion of your budget to build up the trans., stall conv, trans cooler, flexplate, driveshaft, and how are your rear gears? Id say all the trans stuff is def. in need of attention esp. if you do attain your desired RWHP goal.
you'll also need a portion of that money to go torward new exh. system. which is pretty close to the same either LT1 or LS1, but eitherway, thats about $1K right there.

chris
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