plug wires
Don't be afraid to remove stuff that is in the way, like alt and starter.
Cheap wires are NOT the way to go; I like MSD, but another great option is the Thunder over the valve cover kit. Using the stock brackets is important, unless you want to replace burned wires frequently. There is a reason the #7 goes all the way to the back of the block and back to the plug.
Wires MUST be secured against any contact with the manifold/headers. If you skip this or 'just use regular separators' you'll be doing it all over again soon.
FWIW, I believe the Mitchell's guide calls for somewhere between 4 and 6 hours.
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1. Remove the alternator.
2. Do cylinder 1,3,5, and 7 from the bottom.
3. Do cylinders 2,4, and 6 from the top. With the alternator removed, this is possible and much easier than doing it with the alternator in place.
4. Do cylinder 8 from the bottom.
5. A 15-18" breaker bar with a swivel head is VERY useful. I'm not sure I'd be done yet if I didn't have that tool.
That's what I learned the first time out. I would guess it would take about 2 hours if I had to do it again. I used a standard 3/8" drive, a spark plug socket, a 3 inch 3/8" extension, and the breaker bar I mentioned. (of course other tools to remove the alternator) For me, it was time very well spent. Whoever had this car before me wasn't the most intelligent person in the world, and that's being nice. This 95 bird is a project car for me, and most of what I've worked on so far is undoing or fixing things the previous owners did wrong. (or who they had work on it). Some examples, cylinder 8's spark plug was half threaded. 2 other plugs were not tight. Cylinder 8's plug wire was the OEM stock plug wire. Obviously someone decided it was just too hard. I will admit, cylinder 8 was a pain. I would say, this is the toughest car I've ever changed plugs and wires on. I was physically worn out from just doing this job.






