OBD1 to OBD2 conversion
OBDI tuning is cheaper than OBDII and is much less finicky.
I'm with gregrob on this.. unless you want programming now and dont care to learn...
i'm liking the looks of tunerpro rt v5 beta very much.. made me a custom grey dashboard, actually modified gregrobs nightdash, and changed some stuff to my liking... i had the aldl cable and freescan, tunerpro blows it away. i have no need to go to obd2 being i've got this tunerpro rt v5 beta..
its very interesting and fun to fiddle with.. i have already pulled my stock program out of my pcm and saved duplicate copies, and did some basic programming with it such as deleting egr, changing rev limiter, deleted speed limiter, changed fans to come on at 185 and 190 for the 160deg thermostat. also changed my main line pressure... next i'm going to work on the timing and fueling, and shift points..
1) '95 models use the OBD2 style connector. It's still OBD1. Not OBD1 1/2, they are OBD1. They do not have the Class2 data wire, so like Ellis said you need to add that wire. My '95 had it to the connector behind the passenger side kick panel, just needed extended to the ALDL.
Is that a recent photo Ellis?
2) The OBD2 Tunercat software was not sold to JET. They sold JET a version, but it's best to go to Tunercat and buy from them. No licensing/cable credit bullshit. Buy the needed definition file one time and tune ten thousand or more cars with it if you want, no additional charge. I use Tunercat OBD2 for everythng I can. It's not as dumbed down as HPTuners or EFILive, so may be harder for a novice to use.
3) The crank position sensor and reluctor in the timing cover is for miss-fire detection only. Has nothing at all to do with it running.
4) Only a PCM needed. No knock sensor. Simply shut the ESC codes. It will function perfectly, just won't pass the PCM's function test. You will still have normal knock retard. Been proven endlessly. If a knock sensor makes you feel better, buy one.
5) LT1Edit OBD2 will tune them also. I think they also have a scanner, but I'm not sure.
Good luck, Ed
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

FWIW, Bryan personally tuned my car on the dyno and got the numbers you see. I'm a happy customer.
My bill from AI was around $3000, the short-block was $4000, and all the bolt-ons plus tuning was around $2000. Not including the required transmission, converter, 9" rear, etc. You do the math.

I'm running a stock AC Delco optispark close to 7,000rpm on an MSD Blaster coil (no aftermarket ignition such as 6AL) with zero problems.



