LT1 to LT4 upgrade
12-06-2007, 04:59 PM
#4
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12-06-2007, 05:22 PM
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Basically LT4 heads/intake are fairly high priced, especially considering stock castings ported will more than likely accomplish what you're hoping for. It all depends on what you are wanting to achieve. Are you just looking for a mild head/cam package?
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12-06-2007, 08:55 PM
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12-07-2007, 05:33 AM
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If you want the best and don't mind spending the money, you could go with some AFR 195 LT4 heads (#1031) and a new Edelbrock LT4 air-gap intake. Then for a cam, one of the big Comp XFIs.
WD
WD
12-07-2007, 07:02 AM
#12
Your a dreamer, get a clue and get reasonable expecatations and then look at modding the car more.
400+ is reasonable expectation on a stock shortblock these days, anything approaching 450 is NOT.
Also better to set et/mph goals than HP goals because dynos are not the track and results can vary between the two.
I think The Engineer deserves credit for his car's performance because the vast majority of results for the parts he is recommending are mediocre at best.
12-07-2007, 09:11 AM
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So you have a car with relatively few mods and you want to make that power on a stock shortblock????
Your a dreamer, get a clue and get reasonable expecatations and then look at modding the car more.
400+ is reasonable expectation on a stock shortblock these days, anything approaching 450 is NOT.
Also better to set et/mph goals than HP goals because dynos are not the track and results can vary between the two.
I think The Engineer deserves credit for his car's performance because the vast majority of results for the parts he is recommending are mediocre at best.
Your a dreamer, get a clue and get reasonable expecatations and then look at modding the car more.
400+ is reasonable expectation on a stock shortblock these days, anything approaching 450 is NOT.
Also better to set et/mph goals than HP goals because dynos are not the track and results can vary between the two.
I think The Engineer deserves credit for his car's performance because the vast majority of results for the parts he is recommending are mediocre at best.
12-07-2007, 09:40 AM
#14
450rwhp NA streetable is not a reasonable goal on a stock shortblock no matter the money.
Your attitude here is going to have you listening to ignorant kids and leave you broke and disappointed. The guys who know what they are doing are going to tell you the TRUTH and while you may not like it it will be far more helpful and unfortunately many of them have given up trying to be heard through the ignorant masses.
Hell I am the only one to respond who has numbers in his sig to back up his opinions, that said The Engineer has a fast car. Not sure about the other guys but you can't be either since they list no info to back up their opinions.
If you insist on only POSITIVE COMMENTS then you are just hear to have your *** kissed and wont learn a damned thing.
If I were a vendor and I had some ignorant kid email me and say he wants 450+na out of a stock shortblock I probably would not waste me time to type a response, because your goals are way out of line and you lack the knowledge to make the right choices. Best thing you can do is not spend a dime at this point and LEARN what is possible and what it takes. Money is not the key to a fast car, KNOWLEDGE is, and once that is in place money certainly helps.
Your attitude here is going to have you listening to ignorant kids and leave you broke and disappointed. The guys who know what they are doing are going to tell you the TRUTH and while you may not like it it will be far more helpful and unfortunately many of them have given up trying to be heard through the ignorant masses.
Hell I am the only one to respond who has numbers in his sig to back up his opinions, that said The Engineer has a fast car. Not sure about the other guys but you can't be either since they list no info to back up their opinions.
If you insist on only POSITIVE COMMENTS then you are just hear to have your *** kissed and wont learn a damned thing.
If I were a vendor and I had some ignorant kid email me and say he wants 450+na out of a stock shortblock I probably would not waste me time to type a response, because your goals are way out of line and you lack the knowledge to make the right choices. Best thing you can do is not spend a dime at this point and LEARN what is possible and what it takes. Money is not the key to a fast car, KNOWLEDGE is, and once that is in place money certainly helps.
12-07-2007, 09:54 AM
#15
First you will have to get rid of the lambo doors and 22's to save weight....you cant go fast on 22s man
i did an LT4 kit with the hotcam on one of my LT1 cars and was very dissapointed, I ended up with 338 rwhp and 361 rwtq and my best time was a 12.9 with drag radials and 3.73 gears in a M6 (it was a convertible WS6 though). I did the hooker LT's and all supporting mods. My friend did did the AFR 195's with a custom grind Futral Motorsports cam, all supporting mods and put down 380 hp and 360 tq but in a race couldn't beat my current TA with bolt on's b/c it only made 380 for a short band and he had to rev it to 6500 to get there. If you really are serious about going fast you are going to have to set the car up for it first, suspension, drivetain, then a forged stroker motor (ive seen some nasty 396 LT1s) with a good set of heads and pretty big cam and you can see 450 on motor then spray or boost for more.
To me it looks like you are more for looks than performance and that is fine but I am serious when I say you need to get rid of the 22s. The Lambo doors add a lot of weight also but I imagine it would be a pain in the *** to convert it back to normal. Just remember, lighter is better for every aspect of performance including cornering and braking. If you like the way your car is now and don't want to change it, buy another car and mod it for racing. Thats my $.02 and dont get offended about your current mods, they are just not performance pieces
i did an LT4 kit with the hotcam on one of my LT1 cars and was very dissapointed, I ended up with 338 rwhp and 361 rwtq and my best time was a 12.9 with drag radials and 3.73 gears in a M6 (it was a convertible WS6 though). I did the hooker LT's and all supporting mods. My friend did did the AFR 195's with a custom grind Futral Motorsports cam, all supporting mods and put down 380 hp and 360 tq but in a race couldn't beat my current TA with bolt on's b/c it only made 380 for a short band and he had to rev it to 6500 to get there. If you really are serious about going fast you are going to have to set the car up for it first, suspension, drivetain, then a forged stroker motor (ive seen some nasty 396 LT1s) with a good set of heads and pretty big cam and you can see 450 on motor then spray or boost for more.
To me it looks like you are more for looks than performance and that is fine but I am serious when I say you need to get rid of the 22s. The Lambo doors add a lot of weight also but I imagine it would be a pain in the *** to convert it back to normal. Just remember, lighter is better for every aspect of performance including cornering and braking. If you like the way your car is now and don't want to change it, buy another car and mod it for racing. Thats my $.02 and dont get offended about your current mods, they are just not performance pieces
12-07-2007, 11:40 AM
#16
I agree with everyone else on here. 400rwhp streetable or so is possible on 350 cubes with ported heads and good cam but if you want 450+rwhp streetable then you want to go to a forged 383 or 396 and good aftermarket heads and custom cam. 500rwhp and you're looking at boost, nitrous or single plane conversion.
The stock rear will also likely blow under the 400+ power. Hell, they can give out under stock power with sticky tires or bad wheel hop. So a 12 bolt or 9" rear is also needed.
22's on a sports car is about like having barbell weights for wheels. Get some wheels that are lighter and fit the car. Its your car, but if want power, those heavy things are holding you back even more maybe 5 to 10rwhp, not to mention anything over 18 or a few 19's just doesn't look right on these cars, they're supposed to have a low stance, not look jacked up in the air. To each their own though. For performance i would go 17 or 18's with 11" wide rears, light and wide is what you want.
Like everyone else says, first determine what the power is going to be used for and goals, then find the parts needed to get there. the highest dyno car is not always the fastest.
The stock rear will also likely blow under the 400+ power. Hell, they can give out under stock power with sticky tires or bad wheel hop. So a 12 bolt or 9" rear is also needed.
22's on a sports car is about like having barbell weights for wheels. Get some wheels that are lighter and fit the car. Its your car, but if want power, those heavy things are holding you back even more maybe 5 to 10rwhp, not to mention anything over 18 or a few 19's just doesn't look right on these cars, they're supposed to have a low stance, not look jacked up in the air. To each their own though. For performance i would go 17 or 18's with 11" wide rears, light and wide is what you want.
Like everyone else says, first determine what the power is going to be used for and goals, then find the parts needed to get there. the highest dyno car is not always the fastest.
12-07-2007, 11:42 AM
#17
I agree with everyone else on here. The LT4 conversion is probably the worst $ per hp package out there. 400rwhp streetable or so is possible on 350 cubes with ported heads and good cam but if you want 450+rwhp streetable then you want to go to a forged 383 or 396 and good aftermarket heads and custom cam. 500rwhp and you're looking at boost, nitrous or single plane conversion.
The stock rear will also likely blow under the 400+ power. Hell, they can give out under stock power with sticky tires or bad wheel hop. So a 12 bolt or 9" rear is also needed.
22's on a sports car is about like having barbell weights for wheels. Get some wheels that are lighter and fit the car. Its your car, but if want power, those heavy things are holding you back even more maybe 5 to 10rwhp, not to mention anything over 18 or a few 19's just doesn't look right on these cars, they're supposed to have a low stance, not look jacked up in the air. To each their own though. For performance i would go 17 or 18's with 11" wide rears, light and wide is what you want.
Like everyone else says, first determine what the power is going to be used for and goals, then find the parts needed to get there. the highest dyno car is not always the fastest.
The stock rear will also likely blow under the 400+ power. Hell, they can give out under stock power with sticky tires or bad wheel hop. So a 12 bolt or 9" rear is also needed.
22's on a sports car is about like having barbell weights for wheels. Get some wheels that are lighter and fit the car. Its your car, but if want power, those heavy things are holding you back even more maybe 5 to 10rwhp, not to mention anything over 18 or a few 19's just doesn't look right on these cars, they're supposed to have a low stance, not look jacked up in the air. To each their own though. For performance i would go 17 or 18's with 11" wide rears, light and wide is what you want.
Like everyone else says, first determine what the power is going to be used for and goals, then find the parts needed to get there. the highest dyno car is not always the fastest.
12-07-2007, 12:13 PM
#19
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The 22z arent an issue, cause i still have my stocks on drag radialsim just lookin for a lil go faster, so a head and cam package, a tune and a stall will do for now. I dont have any specific numbers that i wanna put down
12-07-2007, 12:33 PM
#20
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That is what everyone has been telling you -- decide where you want to take the car, and then decide what would be the most intelligent and efficient way to go about it. It isn't rocket science -- the search function is your best friend. I gurantee almost every single question you'd ever think of asking has already been asked a handful of times.