oxygen sensor
#2
Launching!
If the sensor is really shot, it will throw a code. Have your car scanned for codes.
If its not bad enough to throw a code, there are a few symptoms you can see. Engine running very rich or very lean. Easy ways to tell, run the car fairly hard at night. Stop, get out, pop the hood. Look at your exhaust manifolds. Are they glowing? Another way is to look at your exhaust tips. Are they black on the OUTSIDE of the tip? Carbon build-up = rich.
It's difficult to exactly pinpoint an o2 sensor issue when it doesn't throw a code. I just have a rule of thumb for GM cars that I have or do own. I replace them every 50k miles.
As far as cost, i'm lazy, don't feel like looking it up. You can search online and have 10 different prices in 20 minutes.
If its not bad enough to throw a code, there are a few symptoms you can see. Engine running very rich or very lean. Easy ways to tell, run the car fairly hard at night. Stop, get out, pop the hood. Look at your exhaust manifolds. Are they glowing? Another way is to look at your exhaust tips. Are they black on the OUTSIDE of the tip? Carbon build-up = rich.
It's difficult to exactly pinpoint an o2 sensor issue when it doesn't throw a code. I just have a rule of thumb for GM cars that I have or do own. I replace them every 50k miles.
As far as cost, i'm lazy, don't feel like looking it up. You can search online and have 10 different prices in 20 minutes.
#3
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Older cars (pre-96) will not always throw a code.
Typically you can tell a bad oxygen sensor by noting that the car runs poorly in closed loop. It may run fine for 5-10 minutes after cold startup but then it will start to have problems once it reaches regular temp. Further, it may still be fine at WOT, but bad at regular steady speeds.
Typically you can tell a bad oxygen sensor by noting that the car runs poorly in closed loop. It may run fine for 5-10 minutes after cold startup but then it will start to have problems once it reaches regular temp. Further, it may still be fine at WOT, but bad at regular steady speeds.
#4
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Older cars (pre-96) will not always throw a code.
Typically you can tell a bad oxygen sensor by noting that the car runs poorly in closed loop. It may run fine for 5-10 minutes after cold startup but then it will start to have problems once it reaches regular temp. Further, it may still be fine at WOT, but bad at regular steady speeds.
Typically you can tell a bad oxygen sensor by noting that the car runs poorly in closed loop. It may run fine for 5-10 minutes after cold startup but then it will start to have problems once it reaches regular temp. Further, it may still be fine at WOT, but bad at regular steady speeds.
That sounds exactly like my 94 when I had a bad O2 sensor. The only exception being that it was way down on power at WOT. It had a horrible surge in the upper rpm's that went away when I changed the O2 sensors.
#5
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damn... that is my problem for sure too then... i throw a code for a bad o2 sensor.. .but my check engine light only comes on for it over long trips and it only comes on for about 20 seconds at a time... i lose so much power top end and every once in a while get a small backfire if i gun it from about 5mph or less... that is killin me in power right now....
that and i am in need of a new cat... or not one at all..
that and i am in need of a new cat... or not one at all..