!Air Pump
!Air Pump Has anyone done an air pump delete? I'm sure it can be done I'm just not sure what all it will effect. Is there a way to program the ECU to not throw a check engine light? This is an OBD-2 car and I'm trying to stay as leagel as possible I just dont like all the vacume hose and all that other crap.
Yeah i took mine off too and havent set a code, but he is a 97 with OBDII (where as you and i are OBDI). If your trying to stay legal and have emissions testing where your at, i think that the air pump is an essential part to staying emissions friendly unless you get a tune. I live in the FL so i just tossed it, but i would see how strict they are where you live first.
I'm in NC and I'm an inspector. But up here they do OBD-2 testing. If your check engine light is on or you have codes stored in the ECU you fail. There is no way around it unless somone know where I can get a tune for this. I'm going to have to have one anyway with the cam setup and all.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
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OBD1 vehicles will not throw a code so long as there's a good AIR pump fuse in the underhood fuse box. OBD2 vehicles need to have the code shut off in the ECM switch table -- otherwise, you throw a code. If you're an inspector, then you know what to expect. You can get rid of the code, but you can still get into trouble if there's a visual inspection.
Removal of the physical components involves simply tearing out the AIR pump, pipes, hoses, and check valves -- then plugging up all the holes. You'll have one open inlet connection on the intake ductwork (which you can seal with a large vacuum cap or plug), and then the two connections to the headers/exhaust manifolds. 1996-1997 style AIR connections on the exhaust manifolds are different than in previous years. The headers have a female connection, into which screws a male-male adapter, onto which screws another female connection for the check valves.
I have the 1996 style connections, and I found some 3/4", grade-5 bolts at the hardware store to block them off. Others use drain plugs from NAPA. Still others just pinch the AIR pipes and fold them over to create a seal. Even more others have epoxied coins in the connections. Others weld 'em shut. There are many options -- whatever works...
Removal of the physical components involves simply tearing out the AIR pump, pipes, hoses, and check valves -- then plugging up all the holes. You'll have one open inlet connection on the intake ductwork (which you can seal with a large vacuum cap or plug), and then the two connections to the headers/exhaust manifolds. 1996-1997 style AIR connections on the exhaust manifolds are different than in previous years. The headers have a female connection, into which screws a male-male adapter, onto which screws another female connection for the check valves.
I have the 1996 style connections, and I found some 3/4", grade-5 bolts at the hardware store to block them off. Others use drain plugs from NAPA. Still others just pinch the AIR pipes and fold them over to create a seal. Even more others have epoxied coins in the connections. Others weld 'em shut. There are many options -- whatever works...
