shortys vs longtubes
budget ride If you're on a budget, go by the rule I always heard from the old school. "If you can't afford more horsepower, start removing weight." If you put your car on a diet and buy a used nitrous kit, you can achieve 10s very cheaply, but be prepared to start beefing up parts like the rear, tranny, etc. You can run high 10s with a bolt-on and spray LT1 if you prefer, but it's all in what you want to spend. Save your money and go basic bolt ons and get some high 7s(1/8 mile) and the spray it to high 6s. High 6s=high 10s!
And especially if your on a budget, i would really look into nitrous. Best hp/$ you can buy!! Weather you like it or not its gonna get you the fastest times on a budget. I know you said you dislike it but at least look in the nitrous section and check some stuff out.
I have well over 8k in my motor alone and I haven't ran it, heck I still have to finish building it. I would be happy with snake eyes, but 12's isn't too bad either. I built it forged, and as a cruiser with plenty of power. It is not a track queen and never will be, I do not want roll bars etc. So you need to take a HUGE step back and look at how the car is going to be used, when it will be used and what power range it will be operating in normally.
I would also suggest you contact a few members local to you and ask for a ride. These cars are quick stock for what they are, and then modded correctly they are viscious. You would be surprised at what a 330 rwhp street car feels and acts like, let alone a 400 rwhp, and for god sakes 500 rwhp on the street.
You should start at the rear of the car and work your way forward. Suspension first, braking second, then drivetrain, then motor. You will be well over 8k, and as a student on a student budget thats a nono.
As far as the originally question shorties are for those who have to pass emissions, they are a bit better than stock, but cannot offer the performance of any LT regardless of price or brand.
I hope you heed the advice and wish you well on your decisions.
I would also suggest you contact a few members local to you and ask for a ride. These cars are quick stock for what they are, and then modded correctly they are viscious. You would be surprised at what a 330 rwhp street car feels and acts like, let alone a 400 rwhp, and for god sakes 500 rwhp on the street.
You should start at the rear of the car and work your way forward. Suspension first, braking second, then drivetrain, then motor. You will be well over 8k, and as a student on a student budget thats a nono.
As far as the originally question shorties are for those who have to pass emissions, they are a bit better than stock, but cannot offer the performance of any LT regardless of price or brand.
I hope you heed the advice and wish you well on your decisions.
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From: calvert county
thanks for all the input guys this is actualy my third f-body I had previoulsy owned two 98 trans ams with pacesetter longtubes a magnaflow 3inch universal cat and a flowmaster y piper and 40series muffler and also had a 4 inch cone intake shoved beneath a ws6 replica hood. I loved those cars the first one I wrecked my senior year of high school while being a jack *** and being cut off by a jack *** as well and the second I recently sold in may of 07. I just picked up my 95 z28 and am kind of regretting selling the trans am but the z is a blast to drive since its a m6 where the trans ams where both a4. Im going to end up using the z as a dd until im out of school in 2 years but since I plan on living on campus its not going to see much mileage starting next year. also if or when I need a cage I will probably try and make one first. I keep thinkin bout doin the ai 200 heads and cam and also port the intake get a new rear and clutch do the underdrive pulleys sfc lca phb torque arm and Im clueless on wich shock and springs to go with.
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From: Lake Jackson TX, south of Houston
Lets see i got a used 396 with a cracked cylinder for $1500 used stage 3 lt1 heads and gm847 cam 1.6 rockers, push rods, and lifters for $500 extra intake for free $300 for a new block 2k in the machine shop so far thats $4300 just for the motor not including all the hardware I'm going to need and that has to be ARP for me and an SFI approved dampener and flywheel, 42# injectors, 58mm throttle body, gaskets, headers and exhaust, stall, rear end, ect... and I'm just hoping to get 450HPn/a and then i'm planing on a 200shot of spray. Right now i have an unturned Lt4 head and hot cam kit putting down 320HP to the wheels and it served me well since 98
Last edited by socal; Jan 9, 2008 at 08:06 PM.
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From: Lake Jackson TX, south of Houston
i say buy the a good new blower kit youll be happy and go from there, cat back, header and work your way up. Thats sayin you have the 8k. If you take it a step at a time you may find out you dont wont 500hp in a dd just think of the gas but fo the 8k low 12's maybe depends how you spend it
Last edited by socal; Jan 9, 2008 at 08:03 PM.
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From: calvert county
at the moment i have a crapy bs cold air intake ported trottle body high flow cat and a magnaflo cat back. also have lca's sfc and bbk underdrive pulley kit on order as well as a aluminum driveshaft. do yall think I would be better off goin supercharged or heads and cam? also what other suporting mods do I need to do and what is worth while doing with each route? also what rear would be the best bang for the buck?
Or if you just want to go through a catalog and start picking out parts and ordering, then it won't take long to go through that 8k.
