adjusting the valves while the engine is running
it will make a mess so make sure to cover your fenders, inner fenders, and exhaust manifolds with towels
What I did was cut a piece of cardboard about 4" high, and the length of the inside of the cylinder head. You don't want any crap in the engine, so I then took some duct tape and covered up the carboard with it. Voila, instant oil splash shield. Just set the cardboard in the depression of the head, outboard of the valve springs, and it will direct the oil back into the engine. Granted, the tape won't stand up to hot oil FOREVER, but it should last long enough to adjust all the valves.
One other thing...As you back off the valves till they "click" and then tighten back up, as you go beyond "zero lash", the engine will usually run roughly for a few seconds, until the lifter preload normalizes. It can be annoying to wait for this. A quick way to avoid this is to take all 16 valves just to "zero lash", shut the engine off, then tighten the additional 1/4-1/2 turn.
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Unless someone is using a buff oil pump there is no mess or splash at all when idling.
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