LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

adjusting the valves while the engine is running

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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:07 AM
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Default adjusting the valves while the engine is running

comments, hints, suggestions, anyone???
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:20 AM
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if it's anything like a regular SB 350, i would loosen them, then start tightening right until the rattling stops, then a quarter turn and call it a day. did right for me, but that's the best i can give for that.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:29 AM
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while engine is running and its at operating temp loosen the rocker just until it starts to tick or tap it will be very obvious, then tighten until it stops and if they are stock lifters i would say turn an additional 3/8th - 1/2 turn if they are aftermarket they they probably require less preload

it will make a mess so make sure to cover your fenders, inner fenders, and exhaust manifolds with towels
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:29 AM
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by regular sb i mean an older style block.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 01:09 AM
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The mechanic that put new valve seals in my car told me when adjusting rockers to have the car running and to tighten the rockers down til the quit tapping and to tighten them 1/4 turn.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 05:55 AM
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Actually, for whatever reason, it seems that the late model LT-1s don't pump quite as much oil up to the valve train as the older SBCs did, so there isn't quite as much oil splash to deal with. However, you still want to contain the mess.

What I did was cut a piece of cardboard about 4" high, and the length of the inside of the cylinder head. You don't want any crap in the engine, so I then took some duct tape and covered up the carboard with it. Voila, instant oil splash shield. Just set the cardboard in the depression of the head, outboard of the valve springs, and it will direct the oil back into the engine. Granted, the tape won't stand up to hot oil FOREVER, but it should last long enough to adjust all the valves.

One other thing...As you back off the valves till they "click" and then tighten back up, as you go beyond "zero lash", the engine will usually run roughly for a few seconds, until the lifter preload normalizes. It can be annoying to wait for this. A quick way to avoid this is to take all 16 valves just to "zero lash", shut the engine off, then tighten the additional 1/4-1/2 turn.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Not trying to hi jack the thread but why don't u just adjust the valves with the engine off? it is just as easy, and no mess to deal with?????
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocky70304
Not trying to hi jack the thread but why don't u just adjust the valves with the engine off? it is just as easy, and no mess to deal with?????
This way tends to be more accurate and eliminates guess work by listening to the change in sound. It is also the only real effective way at setting solid valve train, but it works on hydro too.

Unless someone is using a buff oil pump there is no mess or splash at all when idling.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:39 PM
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yeah all the directions above are what I use, plus it also depends on the rockers, sometimes depending ont he brand they like either a little more or a little less of a turn after zero lash, you just have to play with it for a little while...
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:51 PM
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I only do mine while running, One thing I do is cut a piece of cardboard and put it in between the head and valve springs just so no oil gets on the headers. but like stated above lt1s are not that messy when at idle so it is a pretty easy job. I just lossen them till they tick then snug it up right till it stops making noise then add the pre-load which is about 1/4-3/4 turn depending on your set-up. I also ushally do one Bank at a time then I can tighten the polys then do the other side, just so nothing comes loose. Many people will argue and say doing it while it is not running is the best way, but I will argue and say adjusting while running is the most accurate, all the lifters are pumped up and not bleeding down and with practice you can adjust them in 10-15 min and they are perfect.
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