CC 306 cam, Hooker LT headers, CSR electric water pump, Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, New Vented OPTI, MSD 8.5 wires, 3" custom y-pipe, Vigilanti 3200 stall converter, BRAND NEW 4L60e with less than 5000 miles on it, 3rd gen 1LE aluminum drive shaft, 3.73s gears, Auburn Pro differential, Competition engineering sub frame connectors


A guy on here has this setup with an LT1 auto and ran a 12.4 in the 1/4. Any one know the cost of each item for a setup like this?

 

ur talking about the B4C car thats for sale right? Its a good setup, but cars have gone faster with smaller cams. That cam is too big for the stock heads. If the heads were ported and that cam could be revved to its peak RPM, that car would be easily into the 11s, especially with a good rear end, suspension, and a few other variables.

 

Adjustable regulators have some uses but are missused more often than properly used, I strongly suggest you stick with stock.

I would second the "pick a smaller cam" comment from above, the cam I am running is smaller.

The guy turning the wrenches and making the chassis setup hase a huge impact on performance and ET, have to remember there are bolton cars running this number. For the averatge guy to run a number like this in most weather you are looking at a good heads and cam setup and all the supporting mods.

Off the top of my head probably have close to $1000 in exhaust between the headers and all.
$200 in CAI
$2500 or so in the tranny and torque converter
$700 in posi, gears, bearings without labor
$190+ in an electric WP once you consider wiring, this is not a necessary part but is worth some ET, I have stayed mechanical as they fail slowly rather than completely and suddenly, I do see an electric in the future for my car though.
$300 for a new opti but I would instead just spend $150 on a MSD cap and rotor and use the existing base.
$100-400 for a driveshaft depending used or new
No idea on the subframe connectors, I run a full framed car.
A full cam swap will cost over $1000 in most cases if you REALLY add it all up, springs, rockers, pushrods together cost more than a cam, figure what about $220 for beehives and retainers, $260+ for rockers, should do guideplates $50 for the Isky adjustable and $30 for new studs(go 7/16"), good pushrods are usually over $100, actually we haven't even considered the gaskets or labor on things like the rearend which most guys wont do themselves.

Lot of big numbers there, it can be done cheaper I am just giving averages for cost and what it will take to get most people runnning a car this fast.

As I said above you should probably be considering heads as well which is more $$$$$

 

**** adds up quick

 

I concur...

 

Thats exactly the vechile Iam talking about.

 

I have a LT4 hotcam in my 93 T/A and it runs low 12s.

 

a properly setup car will always run better than just throwing some big name parts on there. I would venture to say that you get some drag tires, lca, relocation brackets, torque arm, subframe connectors, full exhaust, intake, electric water pump, underdrive pullies, and some weight reduction. Get that suspension dialed in and you can see 12.4 without even opening up the motor.

 

mid 12's with bolt on's can be done if properly set up... i want high 12's this spring with my bolt on setup

 

My setup does 12.4s at 110mph. This was only last year at the end of the season. I have purchased a few more thing to get it into the 11s....