LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

solid roller vs hydraulic

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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Default solid roller vs hydraulic

Suprisingly not too many threads about this on here. What I got out of a search was basically more maintence on a solid roller and lash adjustment. What's the real scoop and how come not too many people run solid rollers? How much are they? How much of a difference do they make?
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hark_Z
Suprisingly not too many threads about this on here. What I got out of a search was basically more maintence on a solid roller and lash adjustment. What's the real scoop and how come not too many people run solid rollers? How much are they? How much of a difference do they make?

The real scoop is there is a significant power increase running the right SR setup with the right engine, aka "good combination". SR on a 383 or 296 LTXX's have been proven over and over to be a combo producing optimum 1/4 ET track results. As for maintenance, depending on how often you hit the track and your personal maintenance habits depends on the adjustment. If it's setup right to begin with, Shaft mounted Rockers Vs. stud w/girdles, etc, etc then they hold their adjustment very well. Personally I enjoyed setting my rockers at least once a month because my setup was easy to work on and I knew how to do it in about 20 minutes for both sides. A stroker with a hyd cam/hyd lifters is a great setup too, but they are apples & oranges benchmarked side by side performance wise against a SR setup of similar specs, stroke, heads, intake. The cams will obviously be different due to hyd/solid so hard to match the exact cam. Solids have a quicker snap through their profile which helps a high rev setup, ultimately better 60' times and more power through the top end of the powerband maximizing a strokers full potential.
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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I agree with the above. There are so many OLD myths about solid roller setups requiring adjusting every other day. Valvetrain technology has come leeps and bounds from the 60's-70's. Springs are alot better and lifters have oil slots and holes in them for better lubrication and reliability. But if you dont like working on your or its a daily a SR is not for you.
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Solid roller will almost always make more AVERAGE power than a hydraulic roller.

David
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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My car is definitely just a weekend warrior, as I only drive it once or twice every couple weeks. I have never been able to run it with my combo in my sig. At this point, I'm just trying to get educated with SR setups. I was going to start putting money into a stroker build, but I resisted and just spent over a grand in suspension first. Right now, I have stock ported heads that flow really well. My cam is a custom grind that is designed to wind up to 7k; I'm only winding to 6500 due to my stock bottom end.. So I'm definitely losing a little power. As stated, with this combo my heads flow real well, and the cam is matched nicely, I just can't fully utilize it. My car is putting down a very modest number of around 375-385 to the tires. I was already looking into a stroker so I thought why not a SR setup as well. PEPE, you say that solid's have more high revving potential and can make more power up high, and they also give better 60' times? Care to elaborate? I was already under the impression they are just going to be leaps and bounds better than a hydraulic up high-thus the better numbers.
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Hark_Z
PEPE, you say that solid's have more high revving potential and can make more power up high, and they also give better 60' times? Care to elaborate? I was already under the impression they are just going to be leaps and bounds better than a hydraulic up high-thus the better numbers.
I wouldn't say "leaps & bounds" better because again people are doing hyd combos on these LTxx setups that are running well into the 10's. But on the same note it's also done a bit easier with the SR setups simply due to the more aggressive ramp profile on a SR. Steeper ramps allow for a quicker snap open/close of the valves which translates to a little more power quicker throughout the entire combo. So if you can imagine being in the staging lanes, last yellow light pulling your clutch slamming the gas and INSTANTLY revving to it's max powerband and your drivers side is a foot off the ground then slamming into second because the shift light is telling you "hey I'm ready to shift dammit lets do this low 10 1/4 mile pass" and ...yeah...sorry got carried away there...but seriously if you've ever just listened to a good hyd setup and the way it snaps the throttle Vs. a good SR setup you will tell a difference in the response. Of course tuning and everything else plays a part but we're talking "perfect world" here anyway.
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by -PEPE-
I wouldn't say "leaps & bounds" better because again people are doing hyd combos on these LTxx setups that are running well into the 10's. But on the same note it's also done a bit easier with the SR setups simply due to the more aggressive ramp profile on a SR. Steeper ramps allow for a quicker snap open/close of the valves which translates to a little more power quicker throughout the entire combo. So if you can imagine being in the staging lanes, last yellow light pulling your clutch slamming the gas and INSTANTLY revving to it's max powerband and your drivers side is a foot off the ground then slamming into second because the shift light is telling you "hey I'm ready to shift dammit lets do this low 10 1/4 mile pass" and ...yeah...sorry got carried away there...but seriously if you've ever just listened to a good hyd setup and the way it snaps the throttle Vs. a good SR setup you will tell a difference in the response. Of course tuning and everything else plays a part but we're talking "perfect world" here anyway.
It's no problem, your description of the ramp rate and the quicker snaps it's just exciting.

Ok so moving along here, Right now with my setup once I get it tuned right and everything, I should be closer to 400whp(Not incredibly concerned cuz it's A4), and I foresee high 11's at best. A 383/396 setup is going to be in the near future no matter what. I have no problem dedicating the time for lash adjustments once a month like you mentioned, I am dedicated to squeezing every ounce of power out of this car, and I love doing it. (Sorry there I go getting carried away..) So let's talk times and money. How much more does a SR cam cost in comparison? I know it can't be much more-just curious. I know a lot more little factors are put in as well. I assume SR's love high compression? So going from a hydraulic to SR setup, Would my car put down more in the area of 440-460 whp? That includes the bigger cubes and stroker too of course. And would that put me in the 10's? Sorry for all the questions but there isn't too many more..
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Hark_Z
It's no problem, your description of the ramp rate and the quicker snaps it's just exciting.

Ok so moving along here, Right now with my setup once I get it tuned right and everything, I should be closer to 400whp(Not incredibly concerned cuz it's A4), and I foresee high 11's at best. A 383/396 setup is going to be in the near future no matter what. I have no problem dedicating the time for lash adjustments once a month like you mentioned, I am dedicated to squeezing every ounce of power out of this car, and I love doing it. (Sorry there I go getting carried away..) So let's talk times and money. How much more does a SR cam cost in comparison? I know it can't be much more-just curious. I know a lot more little factors are put in as well. I assume SR's love high compression? So going from a hydraulic to SR setup, Would my car put down more in the area of 440-460 whp? That includes the bigger cubes and stroker too of course. And would that put me in the 10's? Sorry for all the questions but there isn't too many more..
I'm no expert, learned a little over the years with mine and helping friends, research, etc. I'm just guessing you should be around the 370 range give or take a little with tuning on your setup. A 383/396 with a custom grind matching your build which includes how the rest of your car is setup not just the engine on a hyd setup should net you in the 440-460 range indeed. With a SR setup, again custom grind, etc and everything else combo'd right, heads, intake, TB, injectors, tuning, etc you should see from 484-520 n/a. 520 is tough n/a but very doable, I've done it, several here have done it. Most important to me is what you do down the track vs rwhp. I can't emphasize having the right combo with an SR, especially the heads setup. It is not the same price to go with SR's as hyd. First the cam (same price for a custom grind hyd/sr) but then there are the SR lifters, serious pushrods, shaft mounted rockers are the icing on the cake, the list can go on and on but you get the idea. And yes that would put you in the 10's provided the rest of the car is setup for the power, which includes the right clutch, built tranny, custom driveshaft, 12-bolt or 9", suspension, chassis, etc, etc.
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 03:23 PM
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Thx again PEPE, it's real good food for thought, now it's time to save..
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