LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Pulling oil pan???? please help

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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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Question Pulling oil pan???? please help

i have come to the conclusion that my oil pressure problems could be a bad pump or a stopped up pickup. i am going to replace both of these this weekend to see if it makes my pressure go back up. well, i looked at the oilpan and there deffinitly isnt enough room for it to slide out without jacking up the motor. the other problem is that my headers and pipes are to close to the floorpans to allow the engine to jack up.

Is there anyway to pull off the oil pan without jacking up the motor? i really dont want to take off my headers because i just got them to quit leaking, and they are a pain in the *** to get back on. any suggestions are appreciated.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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jack under the bellhousing, un mount engine and drop K member almost all the way.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 11:31 PM
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how exaclty does the k member come down. i dont want to sound stupid but i was going to drop it when i was installing headers and could find which bolts were holding it into place. is it the 3 bolts right next to each other on each end?
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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yea theres 6 pretty big bolts holding it up onto the framerails
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 11:35 PM
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ok thanks a lot. it isnt going to be as bad as i thought... hopefully.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:45 AM
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yea its a real fun job....real fun
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:16 AM
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just make sure you drain your oil before you start pulling it off. we dont want you coming in here covered in oil/bearing shards saying "you ******** forgot to tell me to drain the fawkin pan!"
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 07:18 AM
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Do you have an automatic or manual tranny? if you have a auto, there will be enough room to jack up the motor a good 3-4 inches before it hits anything. just pull the two motor mount bolts out. that will allow you to pull the pan. you shouldnt have any problems with your headers hitting the floor. i didnt when i pulled my pan. try that before you try dropping the k member. you also have to turn the crank shaft so the counter wieghts dont interfere when pulling it out.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by IronOutlaw
i have come to the conclusion that my oil pressure problems could be a bad pump or a stopped up pickup. i am going to replace both of these this weekend to see if it makes my pressure go back up. well, i looked at the oilpan and there deffinitly isnt enough room for it to slide out without jacking up the motor. the other problem is that my headers and pipes are to close to the floorpans to allow the engine to jack up.

Is there anyway to pull off the oil pan without jacking up the motor? i really dont want to take off my headers because i just got them to quit leaking, and they are a pain in the *** to get back on. any suggestions are appreciated.

I've had my pan off a couple of times, trying to chase down an oil leak, after I pulled it down the first time to change the timing chain.

I placed a short piece of 2x4 wood under the crank pulley and GENTLY lifted the motor, after removing the motor mount bolts, of course. You only need to lift it an inch or so. The point of closest contact is at the front of the engine, where the lower crossmember is the widest. If you can't clear the crankshaft throws with the pan, don't forget that you can rotate it, so the front connecting rods move up, and out of the way, giving you more clearance.

If your car has the oil level sensor in the left side of the pan, you should remove that also (it just unscrews, after you disconnect the electrical connector). If you're putting in a new pump, which I would do, since you're in there, I would also replace the oil pump driveshaft with an aftermarket part that uses a pinned metal retaining collar, instead of the OE plastic one. Both Melling and Moroso make these driveshafts, but most parts stores stock Melling, so that one would be easier to obtain.

You'll also have to remove the starter and oil filter.......Good luck, and I hope that cures your problem!



(Keep in mind, that unless I'm TOTALLY missing something, lowering the K-member might give you additional clearance above the engine, HOWEVER you still need to get the oil pan out from between the engine block and the front crossmember. That clearance won't change unless you raise the engine UP from the K-member itself.)
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 10:52 AM
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it is not necessary to drop the kmember to remove the oil pan... like stated above . starter, header, mtr mount bolts.....and lift.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by NSTIGATR
it is not necessary to drop the kmember to remove the oil pan... like stated above . starter, header, mtr mount bolts.....and lift.
yes it is necessary to drop the k-member on a six speed car. There is not enough room to get the pan out with only the motor lifted.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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well i own a six speed lt1 car and when we put the procharger on it we changed oil pans for the oil line to the charger and all we did was remove the starter, headers, and jack the motor off the motor mounts.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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On my automatic car I lifted up the transmission and the balancer to get the motor high enough, it worked perfectly. I also put in the canton pan, which is a little larger than the original.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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Hey Outlaw!!

It's been 3 days...get the pan off yet?
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NSTIGATR
well i own a six speed lt1 car and when we put the procharger on it we changed oil pans for the oil line to the charger and all we did was remove the starter, headers, and jack the motor off the motor mounts.
on my car I had enough room to pull it, but I could not get it up without ruining my rtv on the corners so I loosened the 6 k-member bolts.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Hey Outlaw!!

It's been 3 days...get the pan off yet?

its been raining for the past couple of days. i got to work on it about an hour saturday after i got off work and i got the motor jacked up and all of the bolts out of the pan except for the ones on the corners. i got rained out of work today so as soon as the driveway dries some im going to go finish it.

getting it off isnt going to be that hard its just going to be getting it back on.

what is an rtv fordeater?
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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the RTV is for the front and back of the oil pan. where it curves around the engine. there is a seal connected to the timing chain and its just bare metal on the back. you need to use it otherwise you will have oil leaks in those spots.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 02:02 PM
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yea I really hate oil leaks so I used a good bead of rtv on the front and rear corners and along the seal.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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i got it all back together. oil pressure is 50 cruising and 25 idling. before it was 25 cruising and 8 idling. thanks for the help.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by IronOutlaw
i got it all back together. oil pressure is 50 cruising and 25 idling. before it was 25 cruising and 8 idling. thanks for the help.
Just curious...Was the pump totally shot, or was the pickup damaged or fallen off?
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