Some 383 Questions
Some 383 Questions Hey guys i have been thinking of doing a 383 the most budget way and i was wondering if any of you have any experiences you would want to share. What i am basically wondering is if you can use the stock pan on a 383 build and if you can use the 5.7 rods and a gm 847 cam or does it have to small base circle and if i use 6 inch rods will i have to. Some other things i was wondering is if i need to change the damper or can i do a internally ballanced 383. Would you do a 6 or 5.7 rod is it really gonna be a big difference. I dont know what to do or if i should just build a 355 i am trying to do it the most budget way possible. My heads are LE2 and my cam is a GM847 so i want to be able to build around that. Thanks for any input.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
I know you can use a stock oil pan, I do. It most likely requires some clearance. Place pan on block and turn crank. A witness mark will show where it hits the pan. typically # 2 rod bolt. Just push pan out from inside. It was a VERY small clearance deal.
I use 6" rods.
You do not need a ATI balancer, stock is fine. If you do go "internal" balance just knock the weight off the flex plate or have the flywheel "neutral" balanced at a machine shop.
Many run a 847 on strocker motors. Any cam needs to be checked for clearance on stroker motors. some MINOR clearanceing may be required on cam.
The block will need to be cleared for the 383 strocker. You should be able to take your block and desired rotateing assembly to a machine shop for this machine work and have the rotating assembly "neutral" balanced.
I use 6" rods.
You do not need a ATI balancer, stock is fine. If you do go "internal" balance just knock the weight off the flex plate or have the flywheel "neutral" balanced at a machine shop.
Many run a 847 on strocker motors. Any cam needs to be checked for clearance on stroker motors. some MINOR clearanceing may be required on cam.
The block will need to be cleared for the 383 strocker. You should be able to take your block and desired rotateing assembly to a machine shop for this machine work and have the rotating assembly "neutral" balanced.
Pointless bench racing ignore this comment.
Only real reason to go with 6" rods is they allow for a lighter piston and since rod/bolts almost always fail under tension trying to pull the piston back down after TDC lightening these parts results in substantially less tension on the rod and rod bolts improving reliability.
I am not saying rod length has no impact on power or whatever just saying for a street/strip motor discussing such things is pointless, if there is a difference it is not big enough to bother using to justify the change in plans.
Only real reason to go with 6" rods is they allow for a lighter piston and since rod/bolts almost always fail under tension trying to pull the piston back down after TDC lightening these parts results in substantially less tension on the rod and rod bolts improving reliability.
I am not saying rod length has no impact on power or whatever just saying for a street/strip motor discussing such things is pointless, if there is a difference it is not big enough to bother using to justify the change in plans.
