Stock Valves?
-GM847
-1.52 rockers
-918 springs
-and +.50 locks
any help is appreciated
To know what the seat pressure is determine your spring's installed height, and calculate the seat pressure. This should be close to what is needed for your cam, be less than recommended for a stock valve, have sufficient margin to avoid coil bind at full lift, etc...
Good luck
Hence the "better safe than sorry" and "get bigger valves" portion of my post lol 2.00/1.58 fit nice in our heads. so you guys think i should go with one piece valves what size valves should i get and how much will it run me for them to put the larger valves in?
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EDIT: here's some 1.58s but no listing for which motor -_- http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I'll leave them there, but screw them. Here's Manley's stainless ones for SBC
2.00 (8)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
1.575 (8)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Last edited by Formula350; May 28, 2008 at 04:03 PM.
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It is the valve stem he is concerned about. Larger valves need to have head work done but if you are using large cam large valves might be worth it along with related porting.
BUT iron heads will cost ALOT less to go to 2.02/1.6 than aluminum will. Ask machinist to price options
Good luck
One piece valves in stock 1.94/1.5 are cheap insurance especially since he says he has a concern
Battle, want to clear this up for me? heh As I said in the other thread, it's always fun the learn and get correct info.
BUT all the pressure will be 'carried' in the valve stem. Stock are 'two piece'. They are fine to there design limit...
That I think was machinist 'concern'. I have been shown them 'broken' in two by macinist friend.
Oh wait yes it is exactly like everyone and their brother has already run this combination.
How many problems are you guys aware of from too much spring on stock valves???
Sounds like your machinist is a couple decades behind the times, good luck.
Just because someone gets paid to do something does not mean they have a clue what they are talking about.
Only tuliped LT1 valve I know of was caused by a lean nitrous shot on a friend's car.
You won't ever worry about dropping a one piece valve, and saving the $80 might cost you >$2,000
So you decide.
Good luck
Yes advise is free, posters would be well advised to spend some time here and see who knows what they are talking about and who is just talking before the start asking questions(not targetting you just a good general statement) because there are a lot more ignorant kids trying to answer questions than there are knowledgable guys.
This specific thing has been done, lots of guys running 918s on stock heads.
If anyone is aware of any problems with the stock valves please post links or share stories so we can try and see if there have been any spring pressure related issues, if it is a genuine concern I think it would be very good for us to discuss.
I just hate seeing guys spend money on "problems" that don't exist.
I also think it very possible that concerns about stock valves may have been well founded in the past but that does not mean it applies here.
Only change is I tend to be cheap and never bought 918 I buy cheap $50 springs from Competition products and they are good for .570". And use their valves when I change them.


