1500$ what to do
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1500$ what to do i got 1500 in cash an cant decide what to do, everything is stock in my car except for the exhaust(shorty's with 3in pipe to mangnaflow muff), i have couple of things i just cant decide to do, like get a cam an pp the heads with new 1.6rr and valve springs,
I wanna hear some ideas and how much it should cost for your ideas, plz post some
I wanna hear some ideas and how much it should cost for your ideas, plz post some
A cam swap without heads will cost up around $1000, figure more like $3K for heads and cam.
You told us nothing about your car but before heads or cam you need stall if A4 and gears with either tranny offering. Some sort of CAI, little suspension work to plant the new power. Suspension work can actually save you money, stock suspension can wheelhop pretty easily and that will do a LOT of damage to the 7.5" fast, couple hundred in suspension work to make it hook rather than hop and you can save $700 worth of gears and differential.
If you are really iching to play insid ethe motor limit it to springs and rockers for now, go with rockers that will be right for a LONG time, consider 7/16" stud 1.6 non-SA rockers with Isky adjustable guideplates, that way you can keep them come time for heads and cam down the road.
Springs just go with LT4 springs, they are cheap and perfect for a stock cam with 1.6s, throw them away when you do heads and cam though as they are NOT good enough for even mild cams.
You told us nothing about your car but before heads or cam you need stall if A4 and gears with either tranny offering. Some sort of CAI, little suspension work to plant the new power. Suspension work can actually save you money, stock suspension can wheelhop pretty easily and that will do a LOT of damage to the 7.5" fast, couple hundred in suspension work to make it hook rather than hop and you can save $700 worth of gears and differential.
If you are really iching to play insid ethe motor limit it to springs and rockers for now, go with rockers that will be right for a LONG time, consider 7/16" stud 1.6 non-SA rockers with Isky adjustable guideplates, that way you can keep them come time for heads and cam down the road.
Springs just go with LT4 springs, they are cheap and perfect for a stock cam with 1.6s, throw them away when you do heads and cam though as they are NOT good enough for even mild cams.
k-member, upper and lower a arms, and subframe connectors. i have all that stuff brand new from umi let me know if your interested. if you want to do motor work a cam and intake is alway snice.
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well i was thinking sing the cam and pp the heads with new 1.6rr and of course vavlesprings without the tune is going to cost me just about 1500, i wanna havce at least 300rwhp, or i could just get a ewp, pp the heads with new pushrods and valvesprings, and 1.6rr's(i got stock ls1 fuel injectors sitting off to the side) and get a wet kit, that way i an ready to drop cam an get a tune n go
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Thread Starter
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i have a m6, with the stock gears wich i think is 323's, i got a eibach lowering kit with tokyo shocks, subframe connectors, the guy i bought my car off of said it was bored 30 over 400, with forged pistons, crank and rod's but there is not way of telling unless i tare it down
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I know Jegs has a complete lt4 conversion now ( heads cam intake etc ) I think its like 2k though
I would do your rear end and work your way up though. I have a cammed m6 ( like the hot cam ) and all I do is sit and spin till 2nd if I try to launch at anything higher than 3k yet again I have **** tires ( dont even get fuzsion zri)
I would do your rear end and work your way up though. I have a cammed m6 ( like the hot cam ) and all I do is sit and spin till 2nd if I try to launch at anything higher than 3k yet again I have **** tires ( dont even get fuzsion zri)
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2008
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i have a m6, with the stock gears wich i think is 323's, i got a eibach lowering kit with tokyo shocks, subframe connectors, the guy i bought my car off of said it was bored 30 over 400, with forged pistons, crank and rod's but there is not way of telling unless i tare it down
I know Jegs has a complete lt4 conversion now ( heads cam intake etc ) I think its like 2k though
I would do your rear end and work your way up though. I have a cammed m6 ( like the hot cam ) and all I do is sit and spin till 2nd if I try to launch at anything higher than 3k yet again I have **** tires ( dont even get fuzsion zri)
I would do your rear end and work your way up though. I have a cammed m6 ( like the hot cam ) and all I do is sit and spin till 2nd if I try to launch at anything higher than 3k yet again I have **** tires ( dont even get fuzsion zri)
LS1s use 58psi and dropping them down to LT1 pressure will make them act smaller than stock, just slightly, but still smaller.
With a M6 4.10s are the right choice, wont much affect fuel mileage because with the .50 OD you will just get to use 6th gear more.
The more you post the more you convince me the best advise anyone can give you is to STOP and don't buy anything till you have a better understanding of things, because right now you know just enough to cause yourself MASSIVE problems.
Richmonds are loud, other than that I don't think there is anything to worry about. AAM is GM's supplier think they are also sold under Precision. Yukons suck to setup IMO but they are quiet. Talk to whomever you are going to have do the work and see if he prefers a brand. Always best to have the paid help like the parts you bring him, and gears setup is something few enthusiasts are ready to tackle. I have talked to guys who will build automatic trannies but wont do gears. I do them myself but most guys who have done them will agree let someone else do it.
I think you need to focus on boltons for now because you will get in way over your head money wise if you do a heads/cam swap. A heads/cam swap will cost you double of what the lloyd elliot and ai packages are listed for trust me. I would do 4.10's, Lower Control Arms, and Long Tubes with an ORY and that will be about $1500 assuming you have the gears done which I would highly recommend.
On the headers I think people get too caught up in header debate. My car has 1 5/8" midlength headers yet performs fairly well IMO. Lots of folks like to argue with me but I doubt any of them would say/admit midlength are hurting it too terribly much. If they are then what do you think it would do if it had "good" headers on it?
Shorties are not the best but especially the 1 3/4" one seem to perform fairly well.
Shorties are not the best but especially the 1 3/4" one seem to perform fairly well.