LS1 Driveshaft
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,162
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From: St. Augustine, FL
I've never heard of it giving you any power. Only heard of it removing vibration, and, that is only if you had some bad vibration from the porly balanced stock steel version. I think weight savings are minimal as well. Although, I guess every pound adds up.
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The Aluminum Drive Shaft frees up like 7 horse and 5 torque.. there is a Dyno comparison floating around here somewhere.
It's a direct bolt in. As far as power handling.. some hold out well, some have broken. I got enough power through mine to hit mid 1.5X 60 ft's and blow the 10-bolt up.
When I get the T56 in, I know the Moser 9" is going to hold out, so I'm going to be testing the integrity of that Aluminum Driveshaft..
It's a direct bolt in. As far as power handling.. some hold out well, some have broken. I got enough power through mine to hit mid 1.5X 60 ft's and blow the 10-bolt up.
When I get the T56 in, I know the Moser 9" is going to hold out, so I'm going to be testing the integrity of that Aluminum Driveshaft..
Last edited by the_merv; Aug 10, 2008 at 10:23 AM.
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I installed a ls1 driveshaft in a 95 firebird yesterday. I replaced the front u joint just because i had to put the front yoke off the steel ds to the new one. The rear u joint felt fine and only had 59K miles on it so i didnt change it. If you have any doubt then just replace them because they are cheap.Around 14 dollars each.
I felt a noticable increase in acceleration when I replaced the 1-piece steel DS with a 1-piece aluminum one on my V6... Before, the engine would rev and the car would accelerate, but it still felt heavy despite being quick. After switching the DS it now feels quick. Seems like it takes less effort for the engine to get the power to the road quickly. Cruising RPMs seemed to drop about 50-100 but that could be my imagination... Definitely worth the money spent ($80).
The u-joints seemed fine so I said what the hell and started to put the DS in when I noticed the cap was missing from the new DS. Fortunately the steel DS caps were the same (according to NAPA and AZ) so I just squirted some lith grease in the caps. My only suggestion is that you use jackstands instead of ramps so you can rotate the shaft to get to the bolts. (duh)
As far as hp, with my butt dyno I'm guessing at least 30 rwhp. The DS is really the only performance difference between the LT1 and the LS1 so I'm ready to go LS1 hunting.
Seriously, I only got the aluminum DS because it was only $75 and I heard it was smoother at "high" speed and I generally cruise at 80 mph. It is a LOT lighter than the steel shaft, but I'm not expecting miracles. Anyone who says it is a performance increase, please show me a link.
As far as hp, with my butt dyno I'm guessing at least 30 rwhp. The DS is really the only performance difference between the LT1 and the LS1 so I'm ready to go LS1 hunting.
Seriously, I only got the aluminum DS because it was only $75 and I heard it was smoother at "high" speed and I generally cruise at 80 mph. It is a LOT lighter than the steel shaft, but I'm not expecting miracles. Anyone who says it is a performance increase, please show me a link.
I believe the rule is every pound off of your rotating drivetrain assembly is equal to removing 10lbs of wieght out of the car, same effect....so if the DS was 10lbs lighter (just for examples sake) that would make a diff of 1/10th off of your et. In reality I think its more like a 5-6lbs diff, but not 100%. Ive got a steel and aluminum one in the garage, just dont have a scale to wiegh them. For the cost and ease of install cant beat it.
Also, I replaced the ujoints in mine before it went in...just so I know what Ive got. It was about 30$ for installed ujoints and balanced...well worth the piece of mind.
Ive still got one for sale
Also, I replaced the ujoints in mine before it went in...just so I know what Ive got. It was about 30$ for installed ujoints and balanced...well worth the piece of mind.
Ive still got one for sale