baylove

iTrader: (35)

has anyone stroked a lt1 350 to a 396 successfully and put down good numbers im planning on doing a 383 stroker but i wanted to see if anyone is running a 396 thats reliable thanks guys

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Basically, everyone says that the only reason to build a 396 over a 383 is bragging rights. While the block can successfully do 396cid, it won't be as reliable (so the majority say) and the price to go to 396 far exceeds the worth of the small gain. Stick with a 383 and dump the extra money you'd be spending on a 396, into a bigger cam, better lower end components, or good head and intake port job. Hell, or even for NOS.

baylove

iTrader: (35)

i was just reading up on that the 383 is a better choice im not really worried about bragging rights i just want it to perform what kind of numbers are expected with a 383 with cam and good flowing heads ??? and about nos how much nos can a 383 handle with out blowing anything of course??

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

My 396 was built in 03....its still in the car today

Was only $100 more than building a 383....the big factor is head choice, the AVG LT1 head can't properly feed 383 CID so a 396 is more for bragging right unlees you are putting a good head on the car. And by good head I mean one that can move alot of air ~300 cfm with over 210cc intake runners.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Nothing unreliable about a 396, plenty of cars had them back in the day. Just comes down to machine work and set up, like any thing both have to be quality

fast

iTrader: (24)

yep, a little more clearancing

I feel better saying 396 (so it's really a 395) ... 383 always makes me think mopar lol

TWS

iTrader: (63)

You don't punch it to a 396, you stroke it. The common way to do LTX motors, both a 383 and a 396 have the same amount of overbore (.030) and the 396 just has a longer stroke. (3.875 vs. 3.75).

Ray is right. I have AFR heads. Stock castings would have choked it.


396 LTX motors can perform quite well. Take a look.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Blue Beast!

baylove

iTrader: (35)

ray you said $100 difference around what price should the build up cost ??
this shop locally told me around 8 grand to do a 383 build and installation with my motor LOL there crazy another shop i was referred to said around $3500-$4000 installed

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

You find out what parts their using? The difference isnt in the cost of the crank, its the machine work. You can build a 383 on the cheap if you really wanted to, just depends on the parts. You could build a 383 short block for under 2K is you really wanted, Cast Crank, stock rods and speedpro pistons, be fine for a daily driver or some thing that wouldnt see a power adder. The one for 8K may have nicer parts in it which arent cheap, the cheaper one could be running a cast crank, I beam rods, etc, may not have heads as well worked.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

Correct...it is all going to depend on the parts you are using.

The $100 I was talking about was the extra clearencing done to my block to clear the longer stroke.

For a decent shortblock plan on $4-5000, and then realize you will need all the supporting mods to get the power you are expecting out of it. I spent around $6500 in parts and $1000 in labor to build my 396

TWS

iTrader: (63)

I spent a lot on mine. Cola crank, Oliver billet rods, etc. I also had the best (to my knowledge at the time) machine shop do the work, not the cheapest.

Fixxer99TA

iTrader: (5)

There is a such thing as getting it done for "cheaper" but still getting the job done. I have seen pleanty of people build LT1s/LS1s "cheaper" but still being strong any relyable. Doing it straight up "cheap" will never get you anywhere, other than maybe more money spent in the future fixing it.

At least when you build a 396 and spend a ton on it, it went to piece of mind also when your beating the **** out of it.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

Machine work can make or break a build

baylove

iTrader: (35)

i want it to be a daily driver im not really into going to the track and racing i will have to see exactly what parts they plan on using from both shops i will post them after i talk to both shops a buddy of mine said the 8 grand was a lil over board and thats not including head work that was just to clean my heads and to inspect them NO PORTING OR UPGRADED parts for the heads i would rather spend the extra money to have it done right THE FIRST TIME instead of going the cheap route and having to pay more at the end but also i dont want to deal with shops that have inflated prices just because they can

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Head work is far more important than displacement.

Far as the comments about LT1 heads not feeding a 383, seems to me they have put a 3400lbs car into the 9s NA, turning a little over 7000rpms and putting over 500rwhp down through an A4 and 9" with an 8" converter(loose). To me that means they should be sufficient for a street car. Problem is most guys prioritize the wrong areas and get swayed by marketing rather than results and endup with crap that they pretend is good.

Compstar rotating assembly is aroud $2000 really great value there, figure say $500 in oiling and $1500 for very good machining and assembly, roughly $4k there, now figure $3K for a ported stock heads topend and valvetrain, and another $1000 in water pump distributor, wires, damper. Talking $8k for a good build assuming no in car labor and that the car i already setup as in CAI, exhaust, fuel system already up to par, and like I said, this is assuming no in car labor only labor is in engine/head assembly/machining.

You go and skimp on the topend to get displacement and the average heads and cam car will embarass you. You would be surprized at just how much power you can have with a stock shortblock just by giving it boltons, heads and cam. You can take your 275hp car and make it a 475hp car and have surprizing reliability. A LOT of the budget and midrange stroker builds are huge mistakes either in not performing or in not lasting, seem a number of guys do strokers with less power than my stock shortblock and not last as long under the power as my stock shortblock not counting the miles my engine saw before modification. So either do it right and spend a lot on top notch machining and parts or keep the shortblock stock, the guys that go inbetween endup regretting it fairly often. Problem you will find is lots of garbage is passed off as top notch, start reading things like Eagle and start looking for another shop.

1redta

I have to agree with 96capricemgr there are countless threads about the difference between 350/5 and 383 and the power made between them. the 383 is roughly 10% (33 cubes) more motor than a 350. Some heads and cam only cars will embarass 383/396 cars remember that when you build. Got to watch HOUSE Bye

baylove

iTrader: (35)

ok guys thanks for your input i really appreciate from people who knows what there talking about ive seen some 383 strokers on youtube and streetfire.net and i wasnt impressed with the numbers there 383 was putting out im going to give lloyld elliot a call do heads ,cam, nos,gears and true duals and go from there

baylove

iTrader: (35)

what about this ?? what do you guys think ?? good deal ??

https://ls1tech.com/forums/non-lsx-parts-sale/966346-forged-lt4-383-w-supercharger-500-hp.html

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

I am going to assume you are talking about Rick Abares, and Ed Wrights cars....neither of those cars have "avg" lt1 heads....and both car would make more power if they had better heads. Go look up what some NA 383 cid SBC cars run.

I agree with everything you said....but a 383 with the same heads as a 350cid motor will still make more power under the curve.

My original 396 made 422 rwhp and 447 rwtq with a baby 222/228 .544/.538 112 HR cam this was with a set of 188cc LT1 heads that only flowed 260-270cfm. I don't see any H/C cars making that power with the same size cam, they also don't make over 400lb/ft at 2500rpm.

P.S. and that is also with junk Eagle parts