LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Hooker headers

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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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Cool Hooker headers

I have hooker long tubes on my 96 LT1. I am having a problem with getting my gaskets to seal to the block. I have percy's aluminum gaskets with stage 8 locking bolts and I still blew out a gasket. I'm thinking that I am just not tighting the bolts enough. I can't really get any tool between those last 2 header tubes on the passengerside. Does anyone have a secret tool or tip 2 tightening the 2 bolts by the dipstick? I always blow the gasket out right there. Thank you.
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 10:01 PM
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hmmm. i use copper gaskets and never heard of a problem with them. but sometimes i use an open end to get to the hard ones. it takes awhile but if it works it works.
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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Not really any secret, just gotta get a tool in there that works...

Try some GM gaskets or Felpro, have used lots of both and NEVER had problems.
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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Had felpro gaskets on mine since 2002 and never blew one out. Just got to make sure they are evenly tight
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ladybird
I have hooker long tubes on my 96 LT1. I am having a problem with getting my gaskets to seal to the block. I have percy's aluminum gaskets with stage 8 locking bolts and I still blew out a gasket. I'm thinking that I am just not tighting the bolts enough. I can't really get any tool between those last 2 header tubes on the passengerside. Does anyone have a secret tool or tip 2 tightening the 2 bolts by the dipstick? I always blow the gasket out right there. Thank you.
Get rid of the Stage 8 bolts. They are worthless. Get yourself some of these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

Either the 3/4" or 1" header bolts will work. The 3/8" hex head or even a 12-point will make your life a thousand times easier than Stage 8 piles of garbage. You will be able to use a socket on all the drivers side bolts and most on the passenger (depending on what stock components you still have on the engine). I had Stage 8's and always had problems trying to tighten them. I've never had problems with ARP's coming loose after re-tightening them a few times due to the shrinkage of new header gaskets.
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 11:19 PM
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actually the set up i got came with some good bolts and lock washers

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
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Guys that copper **** don't work listen yo what people are talling you. the only thing that seals is the silicone you put on both sides to seal it up.

I am using ARP Stainless 5/16th head 12point bolts 1 inch long
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by SoxXpupPeT
actually the set up i got came with some good bolts and lock washers

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Whatever works and as long as it isn't too much of a mess trying to tighten them... As far as using a metal gasket there is no problem using them just as long as all contact surfaces are almost flawlessly flat.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 03:00 AM
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From everyone I have talked to the Percy Gaskets dont seal like they are supposed...not my personal experience just what I heard...I have pacesetters with copper gaskets and they work great
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Guys that copper **** don't work listen yo what people are talling you. the only thing that seals is the silicone you put on both sides to seal it up.

I am using ARP Stainless 5/16th head 12point bolts 1 inch long
ARP 400-1209 is all we use and it makes it possible to use a closed end to get them nice and tight.

We also Mr Gasket 5903 header gaskets which have worked very well over the tears.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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I've also heard that these work good and help with getting into tight spaces.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
1 inch long
That's the key right there. The extra threads make a world of difference.
1" (locking or otherwise) and check them often at first.
Once you've gone a few heat cycles without them coming lose again, you can check less frequently.

Just don't overtighten and strip the bolt hole.
Helicoils are cheap, but tough to install with the heads on the motor.

I use 1" stage8s, not so much for the locks (we ditched those on the last build),
but actually for the ability to use a hex driver where a wrench or socket won't fit.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ladybird
I have hooker long tubes on my 96 LT1. I am having a problem with getting my gaskets to seal to the block. I have percy's aluminum gaskets with stage 8 locking bolts and I still blew out a gasket. I'm thinking that I am just not tighting the bolts enough. I can't really get any tool between those last 2 header tubes on the passengerside. Does anyone have a secret tool or tip 2 tightening the 2 bolts by the dipstick? I always blow the gasket out right there. Thank you.
Listen to my method, MANY years of running a higher comp 383 and I learned good lessons.

1) Get Flowtech Dead soft aluminum header gasket, Can of WD-40, Scotch brite Red pads OR wirly bird, Brake clean.

2) Depending if your going to remove the header or just pull it back, un do all the header bolts and pull the header back.

3) Spray WD-40 on the cyl head and header flange, scrub with Scotch Brite pad. then spay with Brake clean and possible a paper towel. This ensures a CLEAN surface.

4) Once done, put new gasket in and loosely bolt the header in.

5) TIGHTEN from the inside, outward. The MLA gasket will compress and you will need to do 3-4 passes from inside out.

6) Run the car through a few heat cycles, check, replete, and re check.

7) Then check every 500-1000 miles or every month.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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IMHO, I personally don't like 12 point header bolts. 12 points forces you to use the closed end of the wrench and that closed end doesn't fit next to all the tubes. At least it doesn't on my Hooker headers.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by silver95
IMHO, I personally don't like 12 point header bolts. 12 points forces you to use the closed end of the wrench and that closed end doesn't fit next to all the tubes. At least it doesn't on my Hooker headers.
they are the 5/16ths head Wrench fits on every one. I tightened the ones on the wifes car five years ago and never touched them again. To bad the Water pump bearing bew out and took the engine with it
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by James Montigny
That's the key right there. The extra threads make a world of difference.
Not really. I've ran Fel-Pros and 3/4" ARP's for 5 years now. Have never had to retighten them after the gasket has settled.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 11:16 PM
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I'm running 3/4" 12pt ARP's with mr. gasket copper gaskets and ive only had to tighten them once or twice (after a few heat cycles) and haven't had to touch them since.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
they are the 5/16ths head Wrench fits on every one. I tightened the ones on the wifes car five years ago and never touched them again. To bad the Water pump bearing bew out and took the engine with it
Hummmm.....that explains everything. Mine have a 3/8ths head. I bet that makes a hell of a difference!
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