spec clutch vibrations
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spec clutch vibrations ok so i just finished putting in my spec stage 3 clutch/billet flywheel, and well as soon as i reversed off of the lift i felt bad vibrations, and once got on the road, 1st gear n 2cd vibrate, but 3rd n 4th is very little, is this normal for a spec3 clutch? i know nothing is wrong with the installation, but this is my first 6spd ls1 with a spec clutch, so its a big difference going from a zo6 clutch to this, but yea any input would help, it just vibrates when taking off at a light or going into 2cd gear, feels good though(pedal, not to stiff since its daily driven) thanx in advance
ok so i just finished putting in my spec stage 3 clutch/billet flywheel, and well as soon as i reversed off of the lift i felt bad vibrations, and once got on the road, 1st gear n 2cd vibrate, but 3rd n 4th is very little, is this normal for a spec3 clutch? i know nothing is wrong with the installation, but this is my first 6spd ls1 with a spec clutch, so its a big difference going from a zo6 clutch to this, but yea any input would help, it just vibrates when taking off at a light or going into 2cd gear, feels good though(pedal, not to stiff since its daily driven) thanx in advance
hey i feel ya on the vibrations all so. I have a 2000 ws6 m6 and just did a clutch swap like 3 months ago. But i didnt use a aftermarket flywheel i just had mine resurfaced. I was told that this clutch needs to be revved up when taking of cuz its such a clutch for lauching the car.
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yea does it when i only take off, a local friend of mine said it wasnt so bad after breaking in the clutch, but yea if i kind of rev it up past 2,000 rpm, is wont do it near as much as taking off normal daily driven, i guess must sacfrifice comfort for performance.lol. thanx 4 the input guys
I had a spec3 with the matching flywheel, and it chattered like crazy taking off in first, unless you were a lil high on the rpms. I contacted MTI at the time who put it in, they said it is common, I called SPEC they said it shouldn't chatter if 'shimmed' correctly. But of course, no one wanted to help the customer out, as I really hated the chatter, so I took it out and put in a Z06 clutch, and loved it, never slipped, bit hard, and took a lot of abuse. All I know, is when I go pick up my WS6 this weekend, def not putting a spec3 in it when I replace the clutch.
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From: georgia
Clutch Chatter I agree with LS184 This sounds like normal clutch chatter, this can be controlled to a certain extent by changing your driving habits. Try and slip the clutch a little less. I do not work for SPEC so I am not sure what their pucks are made of, but it looks like a 6 puck with some sort of ceramic on it. This is a pretty harsh clutch to begin with.Not sure what your horsepower and torque numbers are, but some manufacturers would probably put you in a 6 pad full ceramic for a mid horsepower car. This allows for a smoother engagment and a little more streetability. With any ceramic clutch you will probably have a little clutch chatter until it wears in and this period is different for each driver.
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Chatter is normal and as such is nothing to be worried about. That being said you need to break-in the clutch to see the chatter reduce...this is also normal. You can change your driving style a bit to assist in reducing the chatter. It seems that you are already learing this and making some changes.
Hey Turds...(ofmayhem) As for this being shim related...it isn't and I am confident that no one here said it was. If you wanted a clutch that had less chatter you could have opted for a full-faced option which will inherently be smoother. That being said, the clutch you had doesn't seem to have been doing anything wrong. I guess it is easier to blame the clutch then to understand the problem...but such is life I suppose. I just wanted to make sure you understood the cause and solution.
The disc material for a stage 3 is a carbon-semi-metallic puck. It will smooth out a bit with break-in as many have already mentioned. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!
Hey Turds...(ofmayhem) As for this being shim related...it isn't and I am confident that no one here said it was. If you wanted a clutch that had less chatter you could have opted for a full-faced option which will inherently be smoother. That being said, the clutch you had doesn't seem to have been doing anything wrong. I guess it is easier to blame the clutch then to understand the problem...but such is life I suppose. I just wanted to make sure you understood the cause and solution.
The disc material for a stage 3 is a carbon-semi-metallic puck. It will smooth out a bit with break-in as many have already mentioned. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!
Chatter is normal and as such is nothing to be worried about. That being said you need to break-in the clutch to see the chatter reduce...this is also normal. You can change your driving style a bit to assist in reducing the chatter. It seems that you are already learing this and making some changes.
Hey Turds...(ofmayhem) As for this being shim related...it isn't and I am confident that no one here said it was. If you wanted a clutch that had less chatter you could have opted for a full-faced option which will inherently be smoother. That being said, the clutch you had doesn't seem to have been doing anything wrong. I guess it is easier to blame the clutch then to understand the problem...but such is life I suppose. I just wanted to make sure you understood the cause and solution.
The disc material for a stage 3 is a carbon-semi-metallic puck. It will smooth out a bit with break-in as many have already mentioned. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!
Hey Turds...(ofmayhem) As for this being shim related...it isn't and I am confident that no one here said it was. If you wanted a clutch that had less chatter you could have opted for a full-faced option which will inherently be smoother. That being said, the clutch you had doesn't seem to have been doing anything wrong. I guess it is easier to blame the clutch then to understand the problem...but such is life I suppose. I just wanted to make sure you understood the cause and solution.
The disc material for a stage 3 is a carbon-semi-metallic puck. It will smooth out a bit with break-in as many have already mentioned. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!
No flame was intended...I was merely letting you know that shimming is an unlikely cause for your issue. In fact, the only possible way that shimming could cause this is if there were too much shim used and the plate was thus sitting partially released. A lack of a shim would lead the clutch to not release. I am sure you meant not harm by your initial post...about your issue and thoughts on the matter...though is sounded that way. No worries man...take it as you will...I was just making sure folks understood the nuances of a stage 3 and the cause/effect relationship of any issues.
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thanx everyone for input, i had the zo6 clutch in before this spec stage3, and zo6 held up fairly well, but once head/cam package went in a month ago, went to shy.lol.....i have got rid of a bit of chatter with slipping clutch a bit, but im pushing 508RWHP N/A so thats reason for going with this clutch/flywheel, ill see how it hold up at the track once broken in.and being its my only car(dily driven) its a bit headaching for now for the chater, but i guess ill deal with it.lol.thanx guys
No flame was intended...I was merely letting you know that shimming is an unlikely cause for your issue. In fact, the only possible way that shimming could cause this is if there were too much shim used and the plate was thus sitting partially released. A lack of a shim would lead the clutch to not release. I am sure you meant not harm by your initial post...about your issue and thoughts on the matter...though is sounded that way. No worries man...take it as you will...I was just making sure folks understood the nuances of a stage 3 and the cause/effect relationship of any issues.
would I like a spec2? If it is in line with your planned power output then yeah, I thing you would like it. I personally use our stage 2+ (though I have had stage 3, 3+ etc in personal cars and have driven everything that we produce). It provides really smooth engagement and good capacity. For the F-body my favorite kit we build is the 3+. It is just so rebust while still allowing for great drivability. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
My full face 3+ has very little chatter at all. A minor change in driving style will nearly eliminate it.
The other thing that cause these performance disks to chatter more is the lack of marcels (springy things) between the facings. Look at a stock disk and you will see them. The lack of marcels also makes for a very "fast" to disengage clutch setup.
The other thing that cause these performance disks to chatter more is the lack of marcels (springy things) between the facings. Look at a stock disk and you will see them. The lack of marcels also makes for a very "fast" to disengage clutch setup.
Marcel is great on a stock type disc but it has a tendency to affect the total disc thickness and can cause the clutch to drag. This will cause the clutch to engage and release lower and would impact the way that the car shifts (think of it responding like a car without the drill mod). Secondarily, use of marcel spring would necessitate the use of a thinner fin-type carrier. This could cause the material (especially those with a high friction-coeffecient) to have a great tendency to sheer off the carrier (not good). I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!