mcleod master problem
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 37
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From: mass
mcleod master problem i just put in a mcloed master i still have stock clutch now my clutch pedel is a lot higher if i ajust it so its almost even with brake pedel cant shift car so how do i get rid of play i also did drill mod. clutch pedel grabed a little high be fore i change master witch i like so can shift faster. less travel i have a new mcloed clutch set up i will put in next week with 01 slave in dont know if that will solve my probem what do you guyes think thanks.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 119
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From: Austin, Texas
Re: mcleod master problem Be careful with the Mcleod master. I popped the seal out of two 01 slaves last night. I think I have the master adjusted to far out. This and the fact that a "working" Mcleod master puts out a lot more fluid will over extend the slave and pop out the seal. My case is unusual in that it is a built 2001 LS1/T56 swapped into a 96 Impala SS. I fabricated the pedal assembly and made sure I had plenty of travel. Obviously I have more than enough travel.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 37
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From: mass
Re: mcleod master problem i have my clutch ajusted nice now just took a little time to ajust it mcleod master nice next week i will put in new mcleod clutch with steel f/w see how that gos.
Re: mcleod master problem With all the air out of the master your peddle should be adjusted even with the brake.If there is freeplay in your clutch peddle the air is not all out.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 119
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From: Austin, Texas
Re: mcleod master problem As I mentioned above I was having a problems with slaves and the Mcleod master.
Problem solved!!!
Before ruining the seal in a third slave I decided I was going to figure out for sure what was going wrong. I calculated the volumes for the travel of both the Mcleod master and the updated …145 slave. It turns out that the 13/16 bore of the Mcleod master will put out enough volume (~.5185 cu. in.) to move the slave about ˝ an inch. The slave has about 2 inches of travel before it is over extended so it would take 4” of master travel to over extend the slave. Obviously this is not possible unless the bleed back is not happening on clutch pedal release. This led me to remove the high pressure hose (under car and a pain in the a**) and master cylinder piston (from inside car). I found some rubber about the side of a match head in the banjo bolt that attaches the high pressure hose to the master. I never saw this before because it was down in the hole of the bolt and the rubber was black. I used a drill bit to clean it out. I inspected the master for any more rubber and reassembled everything. It now works like a champ!!!!
I can now remove and replace the transmission in less than 2 hours. I can also bleed the master and slave clutch assembly in about 10 minutes (guaranteed) without any bench bleeding (completely dry system). I will update my project web site with this info, but can send it to anyone who it might help in the mean time. “on the road again…”
project web
You should measure the gap between the thowout bearing and the clutch fingers as well. You may need to add a spacer behind the slave to eliminate any gap. A gap will cause a delayed desengage.
Scott
Problem solved!!!
Before ruining the seal in a third slave I decided I was going to figure out for sure what was going wrong. I calculated the volumes for the travel of both the Mcleod master and the updated …145 slave. It turns out that the 13/16 bore of the Mcleod master will put out enough volume (~.5185 cu. in.) to move the slave about ˝ an inch. The slave has about 2 inches of travel before it is over extended so it would take 4” of master travel to over extend the slave. Obviously this is not possible unless the bleed back is not happening on clutch pedal release. This led me to remove the high pressure hose (under car and a pain in the a**) and master cylinder piston (from inside car). I found some rubber about the side of a match head in the banjo bolt that attaches the high pressure hose to the master. I never saw this before because it was down in the hole of the bolt and the rubber was black. I used a drill bit to clean it out. I inspected the master for any more rubber and reassembled everything. It now works like a champ!!!!
I can now remove and replace the transmission in less than 2 hours. I can also bleed the master and slave clutch assembly in about 10 minutes (guaranteed) without any bench bleeding (completely dry system). I will update my project web site with this info, but can send it to anyone who it might help in the mean time. “on the road again…”
project web
You should measure the gap between the thowout bearing and the clutch fingers as well. You may need to add a spacer behind the slave to eliminate any gap. A gap will cause a delayed desengage.
Scott
