question for Spec 3 oweners ?
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From: Middle east , Kuwait
question for Spec 3 oweners ? Hi , happy new year guys ,after looking , searching and asking about my application they all said go with spec 3 ! it is good for my RWHP ? i'm +400RWHP with nitrous +600rwhp , my questions
1- if i lauanched 3 times with spraying same time the clutch will stick ?
2-what is the specs and defects ?
i'll purchase it after two weeks.
1- if i lauanched 3 times with spraying same time the clutch will stick ?
2-what is the specs and defects ?
i'll purchase it after two weeks.
Last edited by PONTIAC SLP; Jan 6, 2009 at 12:12 AM.
I am happy to assist you with your questions but I want to maks sure that I understand what you are asking exactly. A clutch that sticks, my assumption being that you mean that it will stick to the flywheel, occurs as a result of excessive heat. Effectively you are melting the disc material and then allowing it to cool while contacting the flywheel. The metallic material in the disc could then stick to the steel flywheel surface.
Excessive heat can result from having a clutch that isn't rated to the power you are making so be sure to get the appropriate parts for your planned output. This can also result from a clutch that has not seated fully and is thus making contact on the outer edge of the disc only. It is important to do the proper break-in before taking ours, or any clutch, to the track. Finally, if the clutch is not fully engaging, as a result of incorrect shimming or bad hydraulics, then this too can cause excessive heat. Making sure you have the right parts (clutch and flywheel), that they are shimmed as they should be, and that the hydraulics are properly working and bled correctly is key to insuring that you have no issues.
What do you mean by the specs and defect? Please clearify and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
Excessive heat can result from having a clutch that isn't rated to the power you are making so be sure to get the appropriate parts for your planned output. This can also result from a clutch that has not seated fully and is thus making contact on the outer edge of the disc only. It is important to do the proper break-in before taking ours, or any clutch, to the track. Finally, if the clutch is not fully engaging, as a result of incorrect shimming or bad hydraulics, then this too can cause excessive heat. Making sure you have the right parts (clutch and flywheel), that they are shimmed as they should be, and that the hydraulics are properly working and bled correctly is key to insuring that you have no issues.
What do you mean by the specs and defect? Please clearify and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
I had a spec 3 clutch for about 15k miles. I wouldnt recommend it for your application. The clutch held up fine when all I had was boltons. After I get H/C though it literally fell apart in weeks. I would save up for something like a Textralia oz700 IMO.
Crimini, let me make sure I understand your issue. You bought a clutch that held up fine for 15K miles and then you made changes that lead you to have issues. Were you over powering the unit. When you pulled the kit did you send any pictures of the parts to us for assessment? Did you measure the disc thickness to determine how much wear was present. I ask this because clutches don't just rendomly "fall apart." I am just looking for context to assit others that may read this and not have any. Thanks!
15,000 miles on a spec clutch that gets driven pretty tough looks like the norm to me. I have the SPEC 3+ clutch, the one with the padles, and im pushing 509RWHP and 513RWTQ. I see the track about 6 times out of the year running about 3 times per visit. Not to mention the way I rag the car out in the city, and this SPEC clutch has lasted a good year and a half so far. i have nothing bad to say about the SPEC clutches. My only question is what flywheel is recommended for the SPEC clutches? SPEC or Fidanza??
To the OP: yes the clutch should stick with your power, but go with the Spec 3+, and the only problem that you might have is that this clutch is ceramic and sticks hard when taking off from a light or stop sign. So give it a little gas before you roll!!
To the OP: yes the clutch should stick with your power, but go with the Spec 3+, and the only problem that you might have is that this clutch is ceramic and sticks hard when taking off from a light or stop sign. So give it a little gas before you roll!!
I have the spec 3+ in my SS that I daily drive. I've had it for about 13k miles and quite a few track passes. Its still holding pretty good even though my peddle is on the high side. My car was pushing 440rwhp + a 150shot before I installed my Moser 9inch. I dont really have anything bad to say about my spec clutch. When this clutch finally goes, I'll be replacing it with another Spec3+
i have a spec III x pad in my car. It has about 18k on it and has been at the strip alot. Tons of passes at the 460hp level and a bunch making 620+. It just starting slipping the last day of the year when we finally got the car to hook good leaving at about 6000rpm on spray in a 4000lbs car.
I liked mine alot. It took tons of abuse. I just need something alittle stronger now
I liked mine alot. It took tons of abuse. I just need something alittle stronger now
