Need some input on swapping from auto to stick.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 160
Likes: 7
From: Michigan
Need some input on swapping from auto to stick. I'm bored with my auto. I want to bang gears. So I've been looking at throwing a stock used T56 in. I have a 91. It would stay off the track until I get it beefed. I never powershift on the street, but I do abuse the clutch a little. I have a 9" rear.
Motor is a 383 with a vortech. 650hp at crank. I have an ATI 3500 converter.
Questions I have:
Approximate cost of installing the trans myself. I can research all day but things are different when you actually do it. Any idea what cost would be minus clutch and finding a used master/slave stuff?
I'm using a stock 9" thirdmember, would this need upgraded?
The trans now is a th350 with a long tailshaft, so its about the same length as a 700, so driveshaft should work fine with a t56 right?
I was thinking of sending it to Tick later on to get sturdy. I just don't want to start this project, and find out I've run out of money and the car sits.
Motor is a 383 with a vortech. 650hp at crank. I have an ATI 3500 converter.
Questions I have:
Approximate cost of installing the trans myself. I can research all day but things are different when you actually do it. Any idea what cost would be minus clutch and finding a used master/slave stuff?
I'm using a stock 9" thirdmember, would this need upgraded?
The trans now is a th350 with a long tailshaft, so its about the same length as a 700, so driveshaft should work fine with a t56 right?
I was thinking of sending it to Tick later on to get sturdy. I just don't want to start this project, and find out I've run out of money and the car sits.
Have you read the entire sticky? Much of that will apply to your retrofit. I did tons of research before I did mine.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...requested.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...requested.html
Read teh above sticky first, and then you can go from there.
First thing I can tell you is NOT to use used hydraulics. Not worth it (used MC, maybe) It is just much of a PIA when it goes out, and since you are starting fresh, I would just go ahead and get new hydraulics.
9" will be fine.
Driveshaft is probaly gonna be different.
You can pick up a used T56 from anywhere from $1000-$2000 depending on what you get it with and what condition it is in, and what model. LT1 style is one style and teh LS1 is another. If you pick up a LT1 style, stay away from teh 93 model. '94 and up are good to go. The '93 is a one year only model that most parts will not interchange between the '94 and up.
If you browse teh classifieds, you can normally pick up a whole swap set up (tranny, clutch, bellhousing, pedals, shifter, crossmember, etc...) for $1500-$2500
First thing I can tell you is NOT to use used hydraulics. Not worth it (used MC, maybe) It is just much of a PIA when it goes out, and since you are starting fresh, I would just go ahead and get new hydraulics.
9" will be fine.
Driveshaft is probaly gonna be different.
You can pick up a used T56 from anywhere from $1000-$2000 depending on what you get it with and what condition it is in, and what model. LT1 style is one style and teh LS1 is another. If you pick up a LT1 style, stay away from teh 93 model. '94 and up are good to go. The '93 is a one year only model that most parts will not interchange between the '94 and up.
If you browse teh classifieds, you can normally pick up a whole swap set up (tranny, clutch, bellhousing, pedals, shifter, crossmember, etc...) for $1500-$2500
you are probably going to want the LT1 style because of the shared older style small block properties... Im not sure, but I would say it would make the swap more straight forward. Btw, 650 horse is pretty high for a stock six speed... they were rated at 350/350 I believe... and I know my H/C TA tore mine up...
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 160
Likes: 7
From: Michigan
I read it. Good write up.
With my power level, I'm a little weary about putting a stiff clutch in. The plan was to go with a spec 3. Would a stock clutch hold "most" of the power on the street?
I suppose a cable operated clutch would be about impossible with the push system eh? Would that be a bad idea anyway with a kick *** clutch?
With my power level, I'm a little weary about putting a stiff clutch in. The plan was to go with a spec 3. Would a stock clutch hold "most" of the power on the street?
I suppose a cable operated clutch would be about impossible with the push system eh? Would that be a bad idea anyway with a kick *** clutch?
I read it. Good write up.
With my power level, I'm a little weary about putting a stiff clutch in. The plan was to go with a spec 3. Would a stock clutch hold "most" of the power on the street?
I suppose a cable operated clutch would be about impossible with the push system eh? Would that be a bad idea anyway with a kick *** clutch?
With my power level, I'm a little weary about putting a stiff clutch in. The plan was to go with a spec 3. Would a stock clutch hold "most" of the power on the street?
I suppose a cable operated clutch would be about impossible with the push system eh? Would that be a bad idea anyway with a kick *** clutch?
I would go Monster, that's just me.
No, a stock clutch is not gonna hold 650 HP.
No, a cable clutch is not a bad idea at all, and it can be done, if you want to.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 160
Likes: 7
From: Michigan
I would want a clutch that will slip just a little, to be easier on the drivetrain. The plan is kinda on hold right now, I want something V8 and stick, just not sure if I want to do it to the "drag" car. Might end up building a 5.3L S10 with some sort of stick.
Seeing as the Lsx t56s (for the 5.3) are cheaper than the LT1, this might not be a bad route....and with a mildy built 5.3, an S10 would be plenty quick on the street....
Seeing as the Lsx t56s (for the 5.3) are cheaper than the LT1, this might not be a bad route....and with a mildy built 5.3, an S10 would be plenty quick on the street....
