Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Replace syncoro's in T56

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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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Default Replace syncoro's in T56

How much of a pain would this be? Once the tranny is off where do I begin? Does anyone have a how to or pics on how this would be done. All help greatly apprciated. Thanks Guys
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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i have about 40 threads of info saved up for this same project
got tons of tools and everything else i need to do it
trying to find my ***** though.. i have never opened up a tranny but my issue (same as yours i bet, 3rd and 4th syncros) is getting much worse.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-write-up.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...al-sticky.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...g-syncros.html
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by frankmarroquin
How much of a pain would this be? Once the tranny is off where do I begin? Does anyone have a how to or pics on how this would be done. All help greatly apprciated. Thanks Guys

Use those links he provided above. Good info there, I just got finished rebuilding mine. To be honest I had no previous knowledge of transmissions, and have never opened one up. It turned out to be real straightforward
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 03:52 PM
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I've built 3 of them now, pretty simple if you're mechanically inclined at all. Don't order any parts until you get everything apart and inspected.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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Thanks guys but yeah it does seem kinda scary... How can I tell if say the syncros or whetever else are bad?
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by frankmarroquin
Thanks guys but yeah it does seem kinda scary... How can I tell if say the syncros or whetever else are bad?
The Synchros and blocker rings have little teeth on the outside that slide into the synchro hub.

The little teeth should look like the shape of a house when you hold them sideways. If they are flattened out, they are bad and need to be replaced.

Also look at the blocker ring friction material. If its glazed over, missing, or damaged, the blocker ring needs to be replaced.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 10:09 PM
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More link for you.


http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html

http://www.myfirehawk.ca/t56_rebuilt.htm

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/T-56.asp



.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 06:39 AM
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i just had my mechanic put a tick stage 2 in mine with all the bearings an the ls7 clutch kit. i highly recommend bronze shift fork pads on the 1-2 & 3-4.steel 3-4 fork and carbon fiber blocker rings $189.99 at tick performance and a shim kit.
if you interested in 1-2, 3-4 synchro assembly let me know im trying to get a hold of tick for store credit cuz i never used them. i also have an extra set of bronze shift fork pads.pm me if interested.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 08:25 AM
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The manual for the T56 in the link above is a great place to start. First off, the manual is not a million pages long, so going through the 5 sections is pretty straight foward. It shows pressing and pulling procedures, with drawings, also shows stuff like good teeth vs bad teeth, etc. I have a few questions im going to ask members here about to be sure im clear before i even raise the car off the ground. Im using both the T56 manual, and the "how to" that is also listed above.
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