throwout bearing? syncros?
02-12-2009, 06:31 PM
#1
throwout bearing? syncros? Alright I'm getting this sound. Sounds like "virip". Sometimes I get this sound when letting the clutch out in 1st, reverse, and sometimes on the 1-2 shift. I get this sound constantly if I am slowing down and going for a downshift and have the clutch in. If I pop it in neutral and release the clutch pedal the sound stops and I can put the clutch in and go for a gear again. Sometimes it makes the sound though as I release the pedal. Any ideas? I'm hoping its just the throwout bearing. Its a Tampa Clutch Supply 6 puck clutch. I've heard only good things about them, so I'm hoping that its not my trans. though. I did have them rebuild my pressure plate though, for all I know it might be the throwout bearing that was already on there.
Mods please delete my Only makes sound when its cold thread, if it needs to go, I haven't had any responses in that thread and now it makes the noise regardless of the weather.
Mods please delete my Only makes sound when its cold thread, if it needs to go, I haven't had any responses in that thread and now it makes the noise regardless of the weather.
02-15-2009, 01:06 PM
#4
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Like you said hopefully it's just the throwout bearing.
The symptoms would lead one to believe that's the problem.
You'll know once you drop the tranny.
BTW that car sounds sick, other than the clutch noises.
The symptoms would lead one to believe that's the problem.
You'll know once you drop the tranny.
BTW that car sounds sick, other than the clutch noises.
02-16-2009, 05:00 PM
#6
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yeah when i replaced my tob the noise stopped it usually only did it when it was cold and once the trans warmed up it was ok but that should take care of your problem
02-16-2009, 06:36 PM
#7
So you had a similar noise? Originally it occurred when it was cold, now its almost all the time, but not constant.
Is there a difference in throw out bearings? Who makes a good one if there is?
I'm in school all day, I only succeeded in getting the car off the ground tonight and the front tires off. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the exhaust off, drive shaft some other day this week and get the transmission uninstalled Saturday.
Is there a difference in throw out bearings? Who makes a good one if there is?
I'm in school all day, I only succeeded in getting the car off the ground tonight and the front tires off. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the exhaust off, drive shaft some other day this week and get the transmission uninstalled Saturday.
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02-17-2009, 09:48 AM
#8
Hey Corey, does this happen during cutch engagement only (as you are releasing the pedal)? If so, it could be related to the sound of the disc scuffing the other friction surfaces. This can result from use of a metallic or semi-metallic disc material. Let me know and we can go from there.
02-17-2009, 04:42 PM
#9
No, it occurs while clutch engagement, but it also occurs if I depress the clutch pedal all the way and hold it there. If I go back to neutral and pull the pedal all the way out and then put the pedal back in the sound stops.
I think it was a full metallic. Its a 6 puck. I'm using a SLP billet steel flywheel. I replaced the pilot bushing when I installed the clutch. I've got about 5k miles on the clutch now, it never made this noise until about a week and a half ago. The place modified the Ram HD pressure plate I supplied, on my receipt it says 11" pull 3000lbs. w/brg. I don't know if that will mean anything to you.
I hope this info is of some use, Thanks for the help.
I think it was a full metallic. Its a 6 puck. I'm using a SLP billet steel flywheel. I replaced the pilot bushing when I installed the clutch. I've got about 5k miles on the clutch now, it never made this noise until about a week and a half ago. The place modified the Ram HD pressure plate I supplied, on my receipt it says 11" pull 3000lbs. w/brg. I don't know if that will mean anything to you.
I hope this info is of some use, Thanks for the help.
02-18-2009, 08:29 AM
#10
It may very well be the bearing beginning to wear. Of course it could also result from the bearing contacting the diaphragm fingers with more pressure than is normal. These cars use a self-adjusting bearing that should modify its depth as the diaphragm height raises due to wear. I would take the trans down and replace the bearing and make sure you don't see anything else unusual. Be sure to bleed the hydraulics when you do this to insure that the bearing adjusts properly. Let us know what you find.
02-18-2009, 04:28 PM
#11
So the bearing on a LT1 T56 is self-adjusting? I've never done a throw out bearing, can I install a new one without removing the clutch? I should probably remove the clutch anyway right?
Also there isn't some aftermarket throw out bearing that is supposed to be better right? Just wondering if there is a upgraded type deal I should be putting in, or if just grabbing one from the local parts store is just as good.
Also there isn't some aftermarket throw out bearing that is supposed to be better right? Just wondering if there is a upgraded type deal I should be putting in, or if just grabbing one from the local parts store is just as good.
Last edited by camar0corey; 02-18-2009 at 05:15 PM.
02-19-2009, 09:10 AM
#13
All hydraulic based bearing units adjust to the needed depth for their application. That being said, if there is air in the system or a weak slave or master it can cause the bearing to keep pressure on the diaphragm or to not extend as far as needed. I am not aware of an aftermarket bearing for this application. Most aftermarket clutch kits are intended for use with the OE type bearing unless otherwise indicated.
The LT1 uses an external slave cylinder but the bearing is located inside the housing. This means that you can replace the slave and master without pulling the transmission but to replace the bearing you are going to have to drop the trans. I hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks!
The LT1 uses an external slave cylinder but the bearing is located inside the housing. This means that you can replace the slave and master without pulling the transmission but to replace the bearing you are going to have to drop the trans. I hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks!
02-20-2009, 12:54 PM
#14
All hydraulic based bearing units adjust to the needed depth for their application. That being said, if there is air in the system or a weak slave or master it can cause the bearing to keep pressure on the diaphragm or to not extend as far as needed. I am not aware of an aftermarket bearing for this application. Most aftermarket clutch kits are intended for use with the OE type bearing unless otherwise indicated.
The LT1 uses an external slave cylinder but the bearing is located inside the housing. This means that you can replace the slave and master without pulling the transmission but to replace the bearing you are going to have to drop the trans. I hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks!
The LT1 uses an external slave cylinder but the bearing is located inside the housing. This means that you can replace the slave and master without pulling the transmission but to replace the bearing you are going to have to drop the trans. I hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks!
02-20-2009, 04:39 PM
#15
I see I forgot to mention I replaced all the hydraulics with parts from the dealership two years ago, I hope it hasn't gotten weak in that department already. The ones I pulled out were from when the car was built, so if they lasted 12 years or so, I hope the master/slave I installed only 2 years ago are holding up alright.
02-20-2009, 04:50 PM
#16
The LT1 bearing is installed from the bottom of the pressure-plate (it pushes up from under the diaphragm fingers). There is a clip-ring that retains the bearing, effectively holding it onto the diaphragm fingers, but even if you could remove the clip you would still have to remove the plate to get the bearing to come out. Unless you are a magician I can't see how this would be done without pulling the transmission and the clutch kit.
02-21-2009, 12:42 PM
#17
Alright so I've been all around town and I would have to wait on Advanced Autoparts, they are the cheapest at $136. What the hell is so special about a LT1 T56 throwout bearing? The guy at the local Chevy dealership couldn't believe that it was showing $212 for a throwout bearing. Anyone know what it would cost through maybe gmpartsdirect or any other site you can think of?
I'm hoping to get the trans out today, but not sure.
OK its at $118 on gmpartsdirect, cheaper than the local jokers. Hopefully when I get this all apart that is all that is wrong. I won't buy anything til I get the clutch all apart.
I'm hoping to get the trans out today, but not sure.
OK its at $118 on gmpartsdirect, cheaper than the local jokers. Hopefully when I get this all apart that is all that is wrong. I won't buy anything til I get the clutch all apart.
02-23-2009, 08:09 AM
#20
Welp I went and bled the **** out of my clutch master cylinder and the noise and all the problems went away . It shifts like a brand new car again . Even the notchy shifts were cured . I dont know if it would work for you but I would try it . I still need to bleed the slave cylinder . I will do that this weekend. The fluid was black and just plain nasty looking . I can just bet the slave is the same way .