View Poll Results: drill mod on 01+ Hydraulic vs tick master
drill mod
6
20.69%
tick master
23
79.31%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
01+ master with drill mod vs tick master
01+ master with drill mod vs tick master Well my clutch pedal is sticking on high rpm shifts.. I plan on starting with the hydraulics and going from there. I have an 02 car. I was thinking about pulling the master and doing the drill mod. I was then looking at the tick master cylinder. IS the tick worth the extra coin? I Woud like to only pull the master cylinder once and do it rite. btw car is bolt ons for now. Will have cam n nitrous on before summer end.
I make 441rwhp N/A and 570+ N20, have the 01+ master with drill mod shifting at 6500RPM no problem. Was FREE too! Before the drill mod, had pedal probs and ALOT of clutch slipping after a shift at hight RPM, after drill mode NOT A PROBLEM. Try the drill mod first and see if you can save $350!
drill mod is bs....is all about a properly blead clutch....the clutch works on pressure not flow. i just ordered the tick master so well see...but i just installed the old clutch but did the adjustable stock master mod and re installed the everything CORRECTLY and i can shift allday at 7k if i wanted to??? but i have had it stick to the floor a couple of times after hot lappin it. the tick fixes the booboo for good. i drove a buddys with the tick and the car felt totally different and better.
I make 441rwhp N/A and 570+ N20, have the 01+ master with drill mod shifting at 6500RPM no problem. Was FREE too! Before the drill mod, had pedal probs and ALOT of clutch slipping after a shift at hight RPM, after drill mode NOT A PROBLEM. Try the drill mod first and see if you can save $350!
Did the drill mod on all new hydrolics and a good clutch, worked fine with 400 + hp and 6600 + rpm shifts. Put the tick in and was able to get the pedal feel I wanted and a faster harder shift out of the clutch -Knowing in full confidence that there was complete working system with each gear and each shift.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Obviously, I feel that our product is lightyears better than the factory cylinder (even with the drill mod) for a myriad of reasons. Perhaps I'll put together a new thread to detail all of the differences in the very near future. 
That would b great...Will there b any upcomming specials on these
The Tick unit is a complete different unit, its a Tilton w/ a Larger bore and pushes more fluid and with the braided line they supply its does not need the drill mod. Also I have personally seen the drill mod be a hit or a miss.
I'm always hesitant on this one. My car is shifting alright now with the Tick unit and always had bad issues previously so I voted for it, but it wasn't a night and day difference that I noticed and it still doesn't feel 100%. It's also worth mentioning that the fastest shifting Fbody/driver I personally know has always used and currently uses an OEM master cylinder with the drill mod, and we're talking ridiculously fast powershifting at close to 7000 RPMs in a cammed LS1 on various stock and aftermarket clutches. I've come to the realization that there are probably many factors involved in each car that are unique to that car and may or may not allow that type of shifting (whether it's small tolerance differences in the transmission, part and wall clearances that are unique enough to each car to make a difference, etc - it doesn't take much when we're talking hundreths to thousanths of an inch on drivetrain-related clearances). I've driven and worked on enough of these cars on a million different clutch/hydraulic/drivetrain setups to feel confident in saying that.
I would absolutely say that if you enjoy working on your car, it's totally worth giving the drill mod a shot first since it's free and doesn't take that long (vs $300+ to make the purchase). Thousands of people have been driving these cars for years on stockers and drill modded OEM units just fine before the Tick came out. I'm not saying it's definitely going to work for you as each car seems to react differently, but in my opinion it's totally worth a little bit of time and no money to try first. If it doesn't, then buy the Tick unit. Just my opinion.
