T56 issue
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From: Ft. Wayne, Indiana
T56 issue I have a T56(Viper upgrade of internals) built by RPM Transmissions. recent install of Textralia OZ700 clutch, new 01-02 slave, new pilot bearing,master has drill mod, and newly changed fluid/bleed of the system.
Current issue is at higher RPM's running through the gears, 3rd gear is knotchy (sp?) and very hard to get into as well as going from 3rd to 4th.
My thought is a bad shift fork but find it hard to believe with the upgraded internals.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Current issue is at higher RPM's running through the gears, 3rd gear is knotchy (sp?) and very hard to get into as well as going from 3rd to 4th.
My thought is a bad shift fork but find it hard to believe with the upgraded internals.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
What was installed during the upgrade? I've torn down a couple "built" viper-upgrade transmissions from well known vendors. All of them still had stock synchro keys and stock plastic fork pads. One only had 2K miles on it and had $1000 of damage from a broken plastic fork pad.
I have a T56(Viper upgrade of internals) built by RPM Transmissions. recent install of Textralia OZ700 clutch, new 01-02 slave, new pilot bearing,master has drill mod, and newly changed fluid/bleed of the system.
Current issue is at higher RPM's running through the gears, 3rd gear is knotchy (sp?) and very hard to get into as well as going from 3rd to 4th.
My thought is a bad shift fork but find it hard to believe with the upgraded internals.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Current issue is at higher RPM's running through the gears, 3rd gear is knotchy (sp?) and very hard to get into as well as going from 3rd to 4th.
My thought is a bad shift fork but find it hard to believe with the upgraded internals.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
well, it is also a possibilty that your stock MC is not sufficient with your clutch setup either (even with teh drill mod).
What I tell my customer to do is this, if trying to diagnose a tranny or hydraulic issue:
Go out, and do NOT speed shift the 1-2, just SLOWLY shift to 2nd Once you get in to 2nd, wait for a few seconds or so, then floor it, and grab 3rd hard.
Now, do NOT try for 4th, ok? Now, how did it go into 3rd? OK? or did it grind?
If OK, do it again and again, like 4 or 5 time. EACH time, you are letting the fluid get back into teh line (recovery) and that is why I want you to grab only 1 gear)
If after 4-5 times of this, and each time you are able to grab the gear with no problems, it is your MC that is causing this.
Same thing with 4th gear, SLOWLY get to 3rd gear, and then after a few seconds, floor it, and grab 4th hard. Again, do this 4-5 times, but EACH time, allow the MC time to recover.
Purpose is this:
The stock MC is weak, and does not push alot of fluid. So, when racing, you grab a gear, then a split second later, you are grabbing another, and so on. Well, if MC is weak, it will not allow you to do this. You are just pushing "air" at that point, so to speak.
If, it still grinds when you do the above procedure, then it is tranny related.
