Adapting T56 clutch line to master cylinder.
#1
Adapting T56 clutch line to master cylinder.
I know this has been revised before. At it again.
has anyone been able to modify the stock or clutch line to fit to a different style master cylinder for the clutch pedal? I purchased a slave and line from Rockland Standard Gear without understanding the strick to the t56 clutch line. So. The line they sold me is a 3/32” inside diameter braided stainless line with a dowel pin connector fitting on both ends. Smart design although not for my application. The braided SS flex line has a quick release or quick disconnect fitting at the extremely of the bell housing (solid piece from BH to slave) for ease of use. I’m attempting to reuse this line, to exercise the practicality of the quick disconnect although here is my issue.
the dowel pin fitting, on the braided ss line on the end that would connect to the clutch master cylinder, is not the correct fitting I need to connect to my clutch pedal master. So. I cut the line in order to simply crimp on a new fitting at the hydraulic shop right? Wrong! The line is a OE spec line used only for the t56. From our understanding it’s 3/32” inside pipe diameter. Not 3 AN not 4 AN. But... even if they found a barb fitting that fits inside, they can’t find a collar big enough to go over the braided SS. I thought. Take two types of fittings and make one. Wrong. They have nothing in 3/32”. Only 1/8”. And even if they order the fittings. They don’t have the dies so they can’t warrantee it. 😒 So. Here’s what everybody including myself says. Just scrap the quick disconnect. Make your own new 3 or 4 AN line with EARLS performance adapter fittings and call it a day. Perfect. I’d for sure do that. And all would be fixed. BUT!.... the engine is freshly built, installed, running and I crammed it in a 85 e30 so I gotta pull the motor out to get the trans off to stick this fitting on the slave. Why you ask. No space to just “pull the trans off the BH” it’s up against the friken floor and firewall man..... so to get this fixed without pulling the motor is it even possible. I sense it will be inevitable to have to yeet this motor out.
if anyone has supplies, part numbers or any type of fix for this smart yet poor design shoot me an email at p_taillon@hotmail.com
thanks in advance
Pat
has anyone been able to modify the stock or clutch line to fit to a different style master cylinder for the clutch pedal? I purchased a slave and line from Rockland Standard Gear without understanding the strick to the t56 clutch line. So. The line they sold me is a 3/32” inside diameter braided stainless line with a dowel pin connector fitting on both ends. Smart design although not for my application. The braided SS flex line has a quick release or quick disconnect fitting at the extremely of the bell housing (solid piece from BH to slave) for ease of use. I’m attempting to reuse this line, to exercise the practicality of the quick disconnect although here is my issue.
the dowel pin fitting, on the braided ss line on the end that would connect to the clutch master cylinder, is not the correct fitting I need to connect to my clutch pedal master. So. I cut the line in order to simply crimp on a new fitting at the hydraulic shop right? Wrong! The line is a OE spec line used only for the t56. From our understanding it’s 3/32” inside pipe diameter. Not 3 AN not 4 AN. But... even if they found a barb fitting that fits inside, they can’t find a collar big enough to go over the braided SS. I thought. Take two types of fittings and make one. Wrong. They have nothing in 3/32”. Only 1/8”. And even if they order the fittings. They don’t have the dies so they can’t warrantee it. 😒 So. Here’s what everybody including myself says. Just scrap the quick disconnect. Make your own new 3 or 4 AN line with EARLS performance adapter fittings and call it a day. Perfect. I’d for sure do that. And all would be fixed. BUT!.... the engine is freshly built, installed, running and I crammed it in a 85 e30 so I gotta pull the motor out to get the trans off to stick this fitting on the slave. Why you ask. No space to just “pull the trans off the BH” it’s up against the friken floor and firewall man..... so to get this fixed without pulling the motor is it even possible. I sense it will be inevitable to have to yeet this motor out.
if anyone has supplies, part numbers or any type of fix for this smart yet poor design shoot me an email at p_taillon@hotmail.com
thanks in advance
Pat