Bleeding a Clutch
Bleeding a Clutch I installed a spec 2 with a billet flyweel. I also installed the updated hydraulics along with it. The hydraulics came prebled so i didnt bleed them after i installed it. And a few days ago i started loseing my pedal pressure. It is not real soft. But its noticably softer then it was. It is also very hard to get into reverse, nearly impossible sometimes. And it is very hard to get into 1st. And now if i am puling up to a stop light and downshift to first gear. And push the clutch in to stop with the car still in 1st gear. It will kinda want to still drive like the clutch pedal isnt all the way pressed in. So i was thinking i would bleed the clutch to see if i get my pedal pressure back. And is there any where to adjust the clutch or anything? I need some help guys, let me know. Thanks
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi Texas
You bleed the clutch by loosening the bleeder at the top of the slave unit. When you put in that new slave hydraulic unit you saw the 2 pipes that stick out on the driver's side of the slave? The top pipe is the bleeder. Put a 7/16" socket on it, loosen it a little, press down on the clutch pedal, tighten the pipe back down, then release the clutch pedal. After about 4 pumps check the reservoir and add fluid when necessary.
Now, if you are like me, you couldn't reach the bleeder from the bottom of the car, although other people evidently can. So after some cursing, I slid back the carpet and drilled a 7/8" hole in the body trans tunnel about where I guessed it would be, so I could put a socket on the bleeder from inside the car, and then I can do the whole bleeding thing from inside the car, single-handed. I plugged the hole with a rubber plug and put duct tape over it.
The clutch hydraulics are self-adjusting, and it sounds like bleeding will help you.
Now, if you are like me, you couldn't reach the bleeder from the bottom of the car, although other people evidently can. So after some cursing, I slid back the carpet and drilled a 7/8" hole in the body trans tunnel about where I guessed it would be, so I could put a socket on the bleeder from inside the car, and then I can do the whole bleeding thing from inside the car, single-handed. I plugged the hole with a rubber plug and put duct tape over it.
The clutch hydraulics are self-adjusting, and it sounds like bleeding will help you.
Well i went through the bleeding process today. We did it 4 times and then check fluid and filled it back up. My friend said the pedal felt firmer. So i decided to take it around the block. I got in and started it and it went right into reverse. I backed up and went to put it into 1st and could barely get it in just like before. So i tryed goin to reverse with no luck. So i am back to where i started. I am takeing it to a shop tomorrow that has a vacuum bleeder. So hopefully that will work.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi Texas
No. What I meant was that you check the reservoir after 4 pumps but you have do to do the 4 pump sequence until the air is gone and the fluid runs clear, which is about 5 or 6 six of the 4 pump sequences.
Well i took the car to a shop today. And they said there is no air in the lines. They think that something broke, because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. Does anyone know Spec's policy on returns and warranty stuff. Cause if it is the Pressure plate or clutch. Then i think they should replace it cause there is only like 3 or 4k miles on this.
