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Tick Master Install???

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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #1  
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Default Tick Master Install???

Alright. 1st of all this project started out as a clutch replacement. I bought a Monster Stage 3 with the lightened flywheel, speed bleeder, new slave, and all new hardware. Got the trans out and the Centerforce was toast. Decided to do a stage 2 on the transmission while it was out. Went very well, not nearly as bad as I thought. Reinstalled transmission. Found driveshaft rear u-joint bent. Upon further investigation found out it was a 1330 u-joint and Moser yoke was for 1350. Also driveline was dented. Ordered Spahn Extreme driveline. While waiting for driveline I went to bleed the clutch. Pedal kept sticking to floor which it never did before. Car has a Mcleod master. Went under dash. Master was leaking externaly. DAMMIT!!! Order Tick Master. Went to install. Mcleod master does not have u-bolt. Has seperate bolts with nylock nuts. Tried to lay on engine and get my hand on the master to put a wrench. NO LUCK. Am I missing something?? Is my arm just too big to fit in there(probably too fat, not too muscular!!) Any other ideas aside from removing the brake booster and master??

Scott
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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I would pick up a U bolt. Theres no way in hell you could pay me put on a master with regular bolts.
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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It sounds like you know what you need to do, but just don't want to. lol without a u-bolt I don't know how a person would get the master cyl out without pulling the brake booster
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 08:11 AM
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Are there bolts on the inside of the car above pedals? A lot of extensions and swivels should work if there really are bolts under brake booster.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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There are bolts from the engine side into the car. Nylon locking nuts inside the car. I guess I will remove the brake master and booster. Master looks OK. Should move out of the way without disconnecting lines. Booster looks like a pain in the a#@!! Remove bolts inside, but is there room to get it out?

Scott
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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Why don't you do a step by step "how to" on this while you at it?

On a side note, if you just replacing the master is it worth while to get the speed bleeder...or just if your going to remove the tranny?
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 09:10 AM
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You have to remove the transmission to install the speed bleeder to the slave. The factory bleeder screw has to come off and it is about 2.5 - 3" long so it is inside the bellhousing a ways.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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I have installed Multiple Tick Masters and what they do is have the unit tapped and lock washers. My only grip was the supplied bolts are short and they do not drill all the way through and it was a PITA on the install.

Old Mcleod units may have had supplied bolts and nuts but it should not have had that


IMO I would get a dremel and cut the bolt, hell the whole Cyl out and grab from the engine bay and yank it.
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 12:05 PM
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Bought a Dremel and cut the nuts off from inside. Came right out. Now just have to install the new Tick unit. Thanks for the idea BlackScreaminMachine!!!
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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Finally got the Tick unit in. Bled flawlessly. Very firm pedal now. Installed new Spohn Extreme driveline. Took car out. It is like a whole different car. Clutch grabs good, transmission shifts very, very smooth. 6000 RPM gear changes are a breeze all the way through 6th gear. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! The new Monster stage 3 barely chatters at all. Maybe that is because I was used to the old clutch that loosened a few fillings. Thanks to everyone for the replies. Can't wait to finish the break in and go to the track to see what she will do!!

Scott
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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Thats great man! I got mine installed today as well and BOY WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!

Where does your pedel sit and where does it start to engage?
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