How do I bleed the clutch.
Well I'll tell ya one more time
get someone to help ya.
you need a 7/16 " 1/4"drive socket and a Small 1/4" drive breaker bar.
Just above the Hydraulic hose is the bleeder valve.
Pump up the pedal 4 or 5 times.
Hold it to the floor. Now open the bleeder valve , then retighten, repeat pump and bleed till clear fluid comes out.
Check fluid level ever 2nd or 3rd time.
and never let up the pedal with the bleeder valve open.
This needs to be in the FAQs
Tom
get someone to help ya.
you need a 7/16 " 1/4"drive socket and a Small 1/4" drive breaker bar.
Just above the Hydraulic hose is the bleeder valve.
Pump up the pedal 4 or 5 times.
Hold it to the floor. Now open the bleeder valve , then retighten, repeat pump and bleed till clear fluid comes out.
Check fluid level ever 2nd or 3rd time.
and never let up the pedal with the bleeder valve open.
This needs to be in the FAQs
Tom
when we did my mcleod we did a bench bleed and then followed that up with a ton of bleeding on the car just to make sure we got all the air out. Seemed like there were a lot of pockets trapped in the adj master. I know there is something on here about bench bleeding because that is where I found out how to do it.
I dug around here and found an additional step using a Mity-Vac which surprised me...after doing the regular bleed process @ the slave 4x, getting nice clear fluid, I hooked up my Mity-Vac and stuck the conical tip into the hole at the base of the reservoir. After a few pumps on the Mity-Vac, sure enough it pulled several air bubbles up. Very surprising.
Car's not running yet so I don't know if the clutch was going to have trouble before I did the last step. Definitely doesn't hurt.
Car's not running yet so I don't know if the clutch was going to have trouble before I did the last step. Definitely doesn't hurt.
Originally Posted by crainholio
I dug around here and found an additional step using a Mity-Vac which surprised me...after doing the regular bleed process @ the slave 4x, getting nice clear fluid, I hooked up my Mity-Vac and stuck the conical tip into the hole at the base of the reservoir. After a few pumps on the Mity-Vac, sure enough it pulled several air bubbles up. Very surprising.
Car's not running yet so I don't know if the clutch was going to have trouble before I did the last step. Definitely doesn't hurt.
Car's not running yet so I don't know if the clutch was going to have trouble before I did the last step. Definitely doesn't hurt.
I have a feeling you are sucking air from the shaft of the master.
The seal aren't designed to be sucked on.
Just a guess here though.
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Originally Posted by BadAndy
Christ, I'd like to shoot whoever positioned that bleeder screw where it is.
It's even worse on a 3rd gen floorpan, the trans tunnel doesn't allow room to get the socket on there w/ the ratchet attached. I had to place the socket on the bleeder, then attach the ratchet. Ugh. LS1 Tech Stories
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Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
I have a feeling you are sucking air from the shaft of the master.
The seal aren't designed to be sucked on.
Just a guess here though.
The seal aren't designed to be sucked on.
Just a guess here though.
For those guys trying to bleed with a ratchet...
You need to go to a store (got mine at AutoZone) and pick up a small breaker bar. I bought a 3/8" version, but a 1/4" version works as well. It fits up in the trans tunnel just fine, and allows an easy open/close of the bleeder valve. They are much lower profile than ratchets. Worth the $5, IMO. Slip the socket on first, then the breaker bar. Note that sometimes the socket can be a little tough to get on, because of the valve position in the case. I have had to push the socket on by prying between the socket and the body of the car.
I drilled a 1/2" hole next to my gas pedal, under the carpet. I now bleed it by myself, using a 3/8" extension off said breaker bar.
You need to go to a store (got mine at AutoZone) and pick up a small breaker bar. I bought a 3/8" version, but a 1/4" version works as well. It fits up in the trans tunnel just fine, and allows an easy open/close of the bleeder valve. They are much lower profile than ratchets. Worth the $5, IMO. Slip the socket on first, then the breaker bar. Note that sometimes the socket can be a little tough to get on, because of the valve position in the case. I have had to push the socket on by prying between the socket and the body of the car.
I drilled a 1/2" hole next to my gas pedal, under the carpet. I now bleed it by myself, using a 3/8" extension off said breaker bar.