Bleeding Clutch NOT working!
Bleeding Clutch NOT working! My car sat for 4-5 months over winter and 1 of the times I started it up I checked the clutch fluid and it was bone dry (now I had topped it off last season at some point).
So i filled it up and now I am trying to bleed it and I first tried the mityvac method yesterday for about an hour and got some bubbles out.
Then today I bled the clutch from the bleeder underneath the car for about an hour.
The clutch pedal is still pathetic with no improvement and also when using the clutch bleeder screw the clutch pedal comes right back up after bleeding it. No fluid at all comes out if the clutch if pushed to the floor and then i crack the bleeder. I thought this is how you do it.
a small mount of black fluid comes out if i open the bleeder and then the pedal is pushed to the floor.
Also it has not pulled in much fluid at all out of the reservoir.
Any suggestions? something is not seeming right.
THANKS!
So i filled it up and now I am trying to bleed it and I first tried the mityvac method yesterday for about an hour and got some bubbles out.
Then today I bled the clutch from the bleeder underneath the car for about an hour.
The clutch pedal is still pathetic with no improvement and also when using the clutch bleeder screw the clutch pedal comes right back up after bleeding it. No fluid at all comes out if the clutch if pushed to the floor and then i crack the bleeder. I thought this is how you do it.
a small mount of black fluid comes out if i open the bleeder and then the pedal is pushed to the floor.
Also it has not pulled in much fluid at all out of the reservoir.
Any suggestions? something is not seeming right.
THANKS!
*Update*
I flushed/bled what I think is the master by pulling the quick disconnect fitting braided line and pushing in the plunger and that drained until I got clear fluid coming out.
plugged that back in and proceeded to bleed the traditional way. However it doesnt seem like any fluid comes out when holding in pedal and opening/closing the bleeder. Fluid does come out when opening the bleeder>holding in pedal>closing bleeder>releasing pedal.
But again the pedal comes right back up and is still loose as a goose.
Only good thing appeared that after bleeding the traditional way it finally took in almost a reservoir full of fluid.
Something wrong with my slave? Its weird this happened after sitting over winter.
I flushed/bled what I think is the master by pulling the quick disconnect fitting braided line and pushing in the plunger and that drained until I got clear fluid coming out.
plugged that back in and proceeded to bleed the traditional way. However it doesnt seem like any fluid comes out when holding in pedal and opening/closing the bleeder. Fluid does come out when opening the bleeder>holding in pedal>closing bleeder>releasing pedal.
But again the pedal comes right back up and is still loose as a goose.
Only good thing appeared that after bleeding the traditional way it finally took in almost a reservoir full of fluid.
Something wrong with my slave? Its weird this happened after sitting over winter.
Well you should see a puddle, But I read as pumping pressure into the system yields nothing from the bleader. Possibly because as it sees pressure its leaking before the bleeder screw is cracked, if you open the bleader and push the pedal fluid comes out of the bleader. The fluid is taking the path of least resistance at that point. Just my opinion based on no facts lol.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 29
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that weird because my car 05 gto sat for 4 months too and I just checked it yesterday and notice no fluid in reservoir either. dont want to pump pedal inducing air into the system. Do I just fill it up and re-bleed it? Where did the fluid go to cuz it was full when it went into storage!!
It sounds like an internal leak...lack of use could affect the condition of the seals. That being said you can certainly refill the reservoir and try bleeding but you will likely find that you need a new slave or master. We offer both so let me know if either of you need them. Thanks!
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It sounds like an internal leak...lack of use could affect the condition of the seals. That being said you can certainly refill the reservoir and try bleeding but you will likely find that you need a new slave or master. We offer both so let me know if either of you need them. Thanks!
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Brett Foote Unless you find evidence of an external leak there really isn't much you can do to determine which part is causing the problem. If the leak is internal then there will be no external evidence. Make sure you don't see any evidence of a leak under the car (from the bell) and on the firewall (inside and outside of the car near the master). The Master is much easier to replace since it is mounted outside the transmission and as such may be the best place to start.
** Another Update **
Hooked up the mityvac correctly now with the canister and nozzle to put it down the tube of my reservoir.
When pumping it after about 3-5 of pressure it instantly starts pulling air and will not hold a vacuum. It is just nonstop air comin through the tube.
My question is, If im not pumpin the clutch while trying this, is the slave even being used or in question? It seems to me that there is a leak/hole in the master somewhere as its just pulling in air nonstop. But without the clutch being pressed is the slave even part of the system yet?
Hooked up the mityvac correctly now with the canister and nozzle to put it down the tube of my reservoir.
When pumping it after about 3-5 of pressure it instantly starts pulling air and will not hold a vacuum. It is just nonstop air comin through the tube.
My question is, If im not pumpin the clutch while trying this, is the slave even being used or in question? It seems to me that there is a leak/hole in the master somewhere as its just pulling in air nonstop. But without the clutch being pressed is the slave even part of the system yet?
When you apply vacuum to the bleeder you are pulling air from the entire system...not just the master. That being said I would insure that the line is fitted snuggly to the bleeder to avoid pulling air in at the connection. You may need to put a little grease on the threads to help seal everything fully.
should be a puddle when pedal is pressed down without the bleeder being cracked . this would be a problem . you can press the pedal then crack bleeder then close then release pedal or crack bleeder then push pedal close bleeder release pedal . might take a few times but be sure not to run out of fluid in container .
When you apply vacuum to the bleeder you are pulling air from the entire system...not just the master. That being said I would insure that the line is fitted snuggly to the bleeder to avoid pulling air in at the connection. You may need to put a little grease on the threads to help seal everything fully.
So im guessing I need a new slave.
Problem is going to be pulling my tranny at my apt with minimal equipment.
Be careful, If the trans. hangs at all when installing, between spline engagement and the pilot/dowels are seated you could warp the clutch disc and give yourself more grief.
I jus pulled my trans out wit a lil craftsman toolset took 2.5 hours but i had no exhaust to deal wit made it alot easier but u can jus loosen the trans off the bellhousing and slide it back and drop it to the ground i was surprised how easy it was
What did you use to support the tranny once unbolted?
a normal floor jack but i had a friend support it and help pull it back but loosin it all up use a floor jack to support it while u take the trans brace out and the u can jus lay under it and pop it on ur chest its pretty light when empty
