what brand aluminum flywheel is everyone using for ls1's. and where can i find the best deal on one at ?

 

We offer them P/N 560530. You can purchase it from any of the dealers that sponsor this forum.

 

We offer our 18lb billet SFI certified flywheel that doesn't have inserts that can warp like on some aluminum flywheels for $349.99.

 

ive got the monster 18lb'er and its worked great for me so far, in a street car application

 

I installed a fidanza aluminum one with an ls7 clutch a few months back. Workes and installed just fine.

 

I have an RPS aluminium flywheel for sale.

 

what is the positive results of a aluminum flywheel, and whats the negatives?

ive seen this post is this true? Aluminum flywheels - what you need to know

im just curious because im having a motor built right now and im trying to get the most power that i can, and the guy thats building it said i should think about a aluminum flywheel cause youll gain a little power. is this true?

the thread that i underlined above talks about all the negatives about a aluminum flywheel. i need some help in the right direction.

thanks

 

Anytime you lower the amount of rotational mass you are going to free up power to the ground, whether it be a lightweight flywheel, lightweight wheels or lighter crank/pulley. When considering a lighter flywheel you really need to consider the overall weight of the clutch and engine/gearing combination. IE a stroker is going to be less sensitive to a lightweight flywheel, than a donkey cam in a 346 with stock gears.

 

You definitley notice the lighter weight because the engine seems to die down quicker when you let out the clutch, but once you get it moving its no different. I wouldnt consider it a down side other than you have to relearn how to engage your clutch. Once you relearn its a non issue. Though I could maybe see it making getting started on a steep hill a bit more difficult.

 

If the weight difference is drastic enough a retune may be necessary.

 

i have F1 racings lightweight chromoly flywheel i think it weighs like 15.5 lbs and was only 200

 

It is also worth thinking about the planned usage of the car and its response to this usage in its current state. Is the car going to spend most of its life on the street or on the track?

If it is daily driven then a little extra mass can make the car feel more street-friendly. Similarly, if you are tracking the car and are currently bogging when you launch then you don't want to move to a lighter weight flywheel. This is certainly affected by the gearing, tire, torque output, launch RPM etc...but it is worth noting.

Conversely, if you have a high-torque car that is burning the tires off when you leave the stop-light or the tree at the strip use of a lighter wheel can help dampen the transfer of power and get you out of the hole with less tire-smoke. In instances like this a lightened flywheel is ideal.

We offer both:
SC75S (steel) $259
SC75A (aluminum) $399

Both are SFI certified. Let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to help you. Thanks!

 

this is a thred that a guy posted and this is why i have questions about it to see if hes telling the truth or not

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I constantly see questions posted here regarding aluminum flywheels. Here's a few facts I use for my salespeople that everyone should know if you are considering this mod.

WHAT DOES A FLYWHEEL REALLY DO?

INERTIA - THE FLYWHEEL'S JOB
The job of a flywheel is to provide inertia to get a vehicle moving. The heavier the flywheel, the easier it is to pull off with minimal clutch slippage. On the other hand, light flywheels do not create as much inertia, and thus the clutch must be slipped harder on takeoff to achieve a smooth transition. This will also effect clutch life, since the slip time is greater. Thus, street applications will benefit more from a steel than aluminum flywheel.

LIGHTER IS BETTER FOR RACING... SOMETIMES
In a race vehicle, a light flywheel may reduce inertia on launch and keep the vehicle from spinning the tires excessively, and allow the vehicle to accelerate quicker. The most important factor here is gearing. Too little of rear gear (lower numerically) may cause the engine to nose over or 'bog' on launch. So in order to use an aluminum flywheel effectively, some changes in rear or even transmission gearing may be necessary.

ALUMINUM FLYWHEELS DO NOT INCREASE HORSEPOWER
While some may try to have you believe this, there is no real horsepower gain by using an aluminum flywheel. Lighter flywheels will allow the engine to rev faster, giving the illusion of power increase. However, use an aluminum flywheel in a street vehicle will cause a decrease in driveability.

GRINDING AWAY?
Some manufacturers will have you believe that flywheel inserts do not need to be surface ground. This is false!!! The clutch disc needs a parallel ground friction surface in order provide an adequate mating surface for the clutch disc. This assures minimum runout and maximum clutch life. Flywheels that are not surface ground also cause a decrease in driveability.

BALANCING ACT
Proper balance of the flywheel, whether steel or aluminum, is critical. Make sure the flywheel you use is properly balanced from the factory... some may not be spin balanced at all!

is this true????

 

The insert will most assuredly warp. Mine did. The billet flywheel is most likely your best bet or a chrommoly one. I have had no experience with the chrommoly.

 

All the technical stuff aside... if your car is relatively lightweight with low gears, a light FW will be fine for a DD. No gears and full weight? You'll hate it. I have a Fidenza 12.5 in a 3200lb car with 411's and love it. Crispy quick revs and I can roll out of the clutch at idle without stalling. With 373's it marginally sucked with a Torquer 2 cam. I had to feather the clutch a lot more to roll out smoothly.

 

thanks for everyones advice i purchased a fidanza aluminum flywheel from thunder racing, i caught their freaky friday sale so i got a good deal on it. ill let yall know what i think once its installed.