I did a lot of reading/searching and will continue bleeding/mityvac until I go crazy. Unless of course someone has a better idea. skip to my current problem for the problem. the rest is everything I've done from day one.

99 ws6. put the LS7 clutch kit in from a sponsor and the bought oem slave, master, and pilot bushing. also did the drill mod. bench bled everything, put it all together torqued it to specs and bled it the traditional way (cracking the bleeder and pumping).

Start it up and won't go into gear. Bled it some more. Pumped the pedal til all the air bubbles stopped. Start it again and it is very hard to get into gear; with the rear tires a few inches off the ground the the tires spun freely with the pedal down ("disengaged"). Bled some more with a mityvac and got it to where I could drive it. Also the clutch engages literally less than an inch off the floor.

Eventually got it to my current problem:
After sitting overnight I go to start it and everything is fine. Clutch has no free play and feels normal. I let the car warm up and go to leave: it wont go into gear. Acts like the clutch is not disengaging again and I have about 2" of free play at the top of the pedal. Pump the pedal which really seems to make it have more free play. Eventually get it into gear (probably killing the synchros). I drive it about 5-10 miles and amazingly everything is normal and perfect. Clutch disengaging, shifting easy even at higher rpm shifts (not going above 4500 yet). Its good until it sits for maybe 8 hours and the same problem happens again.... Clutch now have 700+ miles on it.

among this mess I have replaced:
The "new" master because the shaft (despite having threads, is pressed on) slid and broke.
Decided to make sure the slave wasnt leaking, so the transmission comes out again, and it was leaking. So both of those were replaced with "GM" (aka dormon aka duralast aka AP parts.)
Also measured for a shim (despite being told by the sponsor I purchased the clutch from it did not require one).... I had a .25" gap and put in a .113" shim.
This helped only by making it easier to shift while driving. It did not raise the engagement point or fix the issue of it acting like it bleeds down overnight. (originally thinking the slave may have overextended with the large gap causing the leak).

Through endless bleeding and using the mityvac every couple of days for the past two weeks, I still have the same issue with it acting like I either have air or it is bleeding down when it sits for several hours. I do not lose fluid - nothing on the bellhousing, nothing on the slave, and same level in the master everytime.

I don't really feel like I should be replacing new parts over and over again. Also don't know how much more air could possibly be left in it after bleeding it and using a mity vac for 2 weeks.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

 

Have you considered the TICK master cylinder? Seems to be fixing a lot of clutch disengagement problems and people seem pretty satisfied with it including myself.

 

That part from the old one would fix that much. And there's an aftermarket fits-many setup to make things adjustable; might work to convert and fix yours.
Mity Vac method doesn't get all the air out. JMD method does.

 

I have thought about making an adjustable master like in the sticky but don't really see how this will fix the problem. In my opinion it should work better than this with all oem parts.
I will try your method next time I get a day off work and see if that fixes it.

 

Keep in mind that the LS7 Clutch was built around the C6 Z06 hydraulic system, which still isn't GOOD, but is better than the F-Body setup.

Definitely put a fresh, quality bleed on the system. If that still doesn't solve all your problems, I encourage you to give our FAQ a quick read: http://tick-performance.com/images/tickshiftfaq.html

..and I think you'll find that our Adjustable Master is a much smarter choice than wasting your time trying to make the stocker adjustable: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/

 

I've done everything suggested above aside from buying the tick adjustable master for lack of money and confidence that it'll 100% for sure fix my problem. Basically I want to see if anyone can explain the cause of my problem:

Car sits overnight and the next morning I go to leave and the pedal feels like it needs bled, has lots of free play and gets worse if I try to pump the pedal causing it to stick. At the same time it won't go into any gear. Eventually I pump it enough to to get it into gear. I start driving it and am careful with my shifts ect. After about 5 miles the clutch randomly fixes itself and is perfect. Shifts effortlessly, doesn't lock me out of gear or anything. Then it sit overnight and the same thing happens over again. It is not getting better after a month and replacing the master and slave again.

After replacing the master this last time I flushed the system and got a bunch of black greasy like stuff out of it which floats in the brake fluid. Noticed this white coating on the new rubber hose on the master. Best I can figure out is my fluid (dot4) is reacting with that white coating (maybe silicone) and screwing things up.

Any ideas on the cause of all this?? It makes about as much sense to me as trying to defy gravity.