Tick master DOA?
Tick master DOA? I recently installed a tick master cylinder in my 02 Z28, and I'm having some issues with bleeding it. The clutch pedal will not move, at all. Not in not out not anything. Is my tick dead? From the searching I've done it appears sometimes air can build up in the master if they sit for a long time and will keep the cylinder from pumping fluid? I've seen some posts saying it you tap on it it'll knock these air pockets loose?
I tried "gravity bleeding" it in the car and It would leak small amounts of fluid from the hydraulic line but no improvement it would seem.
I called tick about the matter and I've yet to receive a call back so I was hoping maybe some members here could shed some light on the issue. Is it bad, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks for any help,
Eric
I tried "gravity bleeding" it in the car and It would leak small amounts of fluid from the hydraulic line but no improvement it would seem.
I called tick about the matter and I've yet to receive a call back so I was hoping maybe some members here could shed some light on the issue. Is it bad, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks for any help,
Eric
Air will not lock up the cylinder. Air can be compressed, fluid can not.
Disconnect the line of the master from the slave. Have someone push the piston in at the end of the masters line so that fluid can flow. While the piston is pushed in, push the pedal down slowly. The piston has to be opened to allow fluid to exit with the line disconnected.
The pedal should push down with little or no resistance. If it pushes down, have them release the piston before you allow the pedal to return so that air isn't drawn into the system.
If the pedal pushes down, the master is not the problem. If the pedal does not push down, remove the heim joint from the pedal and make sure that the pedal itself moves.
If your line isn't connected completely (which wouldn't allow the piston in the line to be opened) then the pedal will be solid assuming the master is bled good. Make sure the line is hooked up solidly.
I don't think I have ever seen a master that has failed in a way that it "locks up".
Disconnect the line of the master from the slave. Have someone push the piston in at the end of the masters line so that fluid can flow. While the piston is pushed in, push the pedal down slowly. The piston has to be opened to allow fluid to exit with the line disconnected.
The pedal should push down with little or no resistance. If it pushes down, have them release the piston before you allow the pedal to return so that air isn't drawn into the system.
If the pedal pushes down, the master is not the problem. If the pedal does not push down, remove the heim joint from the pedal and make sure that the pedal itself moves.
If your line isn't connected completely (which wouldn't allow the piston in the line to be opened) then the pedal will be solid assuming the master is bled good. Make sure the line is hooked up solidly.
I don't think I have ever seen a master that has failed in a way that it "locks up".
After talking to Jonathan at Tick I got everything figured out. It turned out that the hydraulic line going into the trans hadn't seated correctly was wasn't pushing fluid.
For anyone with similar issues to mine, Jonathan suggested I try cracking the bleeder screw when inserting the line as sometimes pressure from the slave can keep the quick disconnect fitting from seating properly. From there I could get the master moving, so I adjusted the turnbuckle quite a bit longer to get fluid flowing.
Now that everything is in the car and working I'm very happy I spent the money. Shifts are much more consistent and smooth. I had a few instances where at high rpm it'd take a second to shift so I guess I need to lengthen it a bit more. After the test drive I started the car to move it later that night and I had some trouble getting into gear, assuming I might still have some air in the line as well? Really need to get the speed bleeder installed...
Eric
For anyone with similar issues to mine, Jonathan suggested I try cracking the bleeder screw when inserting the line as sometimes pressure from the slave can keep the quick disconnect fitting from seating properly. From there I could get the master moving, so I adjusted the turnbuckle quite a bit longer to get fluid flowing.
Now that everything is in the car and working I'm very happy I spent the money. Shifts are much more consistent and smooth. I had a few instances where at high rpm it'd take a second to shift so I guess I need to lengthen it a bit more. After the test drive I started the car to move it later that night and I had some trouble getting into gear, assuming I might still have some air in the line as well? Really need to get the speed bleeder installed...
Eric
Just another update...
I removed the pedal return spring and I think I found my issue. For one, as many have described on tech with the Tick master the pedal feel is a lot nicer without the spring.
Secondly, the spring will raise the pedal higher than where the master is trying to place it. This masked the true set height of the pedal, therefore the turnbuckle needed to be MUCH longer to achieve the same pedal height. The little bit of free play at the top of the travel is gone, and the car shifts into the gears like butter now.
Thanks again to Tick performance for answering all of my newb questions.
Eric
I removed the pedal return spring and I think I found my issue. For one, as many have described on tech with the Tick master the pedal feel is a lot nicer without the spring.
Secondly, the spring will raise the pedal higher than where the master is trying to place it. This masked the true set height of the pedal, therefore the turnbuckle needed to be MUCH longer to achieve the same pedal height. The little bit of free play at the top of the travel is gone, and the car shifts into the gears like butter now.
Thanks again to Tick performance for answering all of my newb questions.
Eric
