Clutch engagement problems - T56/Spec Stage2
#1
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hi everyone!
before you tell me to go search- i have searched.
my clutch doesn't disengage completely. it needs a little force to get it in 1st, and reverse grinds. i have to turn the car off to put it in reverse.
i have an ls1/t56 swapped into an s14. using wilwood 3/4" master, ac delco slave and custom lines with a speed bleeder. removed the quick disconnect from the slave and used a russell fitting to give me a -3AN port.
i'm on my 3rd slave since january 2012. the first slave wouldn't disengage all the way. i adjusted the master pushrod all the way to the end, and i finally was able to easily engage all gears. after a while, engagement was hard, reverse would grind and something in the slave would leak slowly, and caused the fluid to be dirty (i probably blew the slave).
second slave, same thing. i measured to see if my slave needs a spacer, and it was really close to the 1/8th mark, but i used one anyways. everything worked fine for about an evening. then, same exact thing. pushrod was adjusted all the way, hard to engage, no reverse, and leaks with dirty fluid. i probably blew the slave again.
i just replaced the slave again, took the master out and made sure to prime it properly, and bench tested the system. i could find no leaks. i put the slave in a vice, and pushed on the master as hard as my hands could and nooo leaks. i used new lines and everything is tight as **** now, same issue. i adjusted the master to push to travel as little as possible (about .5") and slowly adjusted it up (to over 1"). i get no engagement until i get the rod close to max and then it's just like the other 2 slaves- barely disengages. when i got it to the highest point i'm willing to go (because i don't wanna blow the slave) i heard a pop in the bellhousing while pumping the pedal. i think i blew the slave. again. the car has been sitting, for 2 days, and i haven't had a chance to check for leaks. i didn't use a spacer on this slave as the gap was about .035"
i have a brand new master i'll be installing tonight (i'll be sure to properly prime it). also, im using ATE superblue and gold (alternating) as my brake and clutch fluid. i'm pulling my hair out here, as i can't conceive wtf is going on.
- my master might be blown, but how does a leak develop in the bell housing?
- can i blow the slave without it even completely disengaging the clutch?
any ideas are greatly appreciated. thanks!!!
before you tell me to go search- i have searched.
my clutch doesn't disengage completely. it needs a little force to get it in 1st, and reverse grinds. i have to turn the car off to put it in reverse.
i have an ls1/t56 swapped into an s14. using wilwood 3/4" master, ac delco slave and custom lines with a speed bleeder. removed the quick disconnect from the slave and used a russell fitting to give me a -3AN port.
i'm on my 3rd slave since january 2012. the first slave wouldn't disengage all the way. i adjusted the master pushrod all the way to the end, and i finally was able to easily engage all gears. after a while, engagement was hard, reverse would grind and something in the slave would leak slowly, and caused the fluid to be dirty (i probably blew the slave).
second slave, same thing. i measured to see if my slave needs a spacer, and it was really close to the 1/8th mark, but i used one anyways. everything worked fine for about an evening. then, same exact thing. pushrod was adjusted all the way, hard to engage, no reverse, and leaks with dirty fluid. i probably blew the slave again.
i just replaced the slave again, took the master out and made sure to prime it properly, and bench tested the system. i could find no leaks. i put the slave in a vice, and pushed on the master as hard as my hands could and nooo leaks. i used new lines and everything is tight as **** now, same issue. i adjusted the master to push to travel as little as possible (about .5") and slowly adjusted it up (to over 1"). i get no engagement until i get the rod close to max and then it's just like the other 2 slaves- barely disengages. when i got it to the highest point i'm willing to go (because i don't wanna blow the slave) i heard a pop in the bellhousing while pumping the pedal. i think i blew the slave. again. the car has been sitting, for 2 days, and i haven't had a chance to check for leaks. i didn't use a spacer on this slave as the gap was about .035"
i have a brand new master i'll be installing tonight (i'll be sure to properly prime it). also, im using ATE superblue and gold (alternating) as my brake and clutch fluid. i'm pulling my hair out here, as i can't conceive wtf is going on.
- my master might be blown, but how does a leak develop in the bell housing?
- can i blow the slave without it even completely disengaging the clutch?
any ideas are greatly appreciated. thanks!!!
#2
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There are a couple of things worth checking. When you installed the clutch did you check your measurements and need/or lack thereof for the shim we provide with our kits? If not, I can send this measurment sheet to you via email.
Additionally, having the rod extended fully could easily be causing you to over-extend the slave and thus pop the seals. In fact, it's possible that you are over-extending the clutch assembly too which would lead to rengagement of the plate. have you checked the amount of release you see if you shorten the rod significantly?
You can check the master by disconnecting the master from the slave (insuring that it is not going to push fluid out) and depressing the clutch pedal. DO NOT PUSH OVERLY HARD. Just easily depress the pedal. If the pedal drops under pressure then you are seeing a leak in the Master.
Let me know what you find and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
Additionally, having the rod extended fully could easily be causing you to over-extend the slave and thus pop the seals. In fact, it's possible that you are over-extending the clutch assembly too which would lead to rengagement of the plate. have you checked the amount of release you see if you shorten the rod significantly?
You can check the master by disconnecting the master from the slave (insuring that it is not going to push fluid out) and depressing the clutch pedal. DO NOT PUSH OVERLY HARD. Just easily depress the pedal. If the pedal drops under pressure then you are seeing a leak in the Master.
Let me know what you find and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
#3
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hi, thanks for your reply. i did measure, and a spacer was not required. i spoke to you guys when i was putting in my second slave and the tech said that there should actually be around .200" clearance... not the standard 1/6" to 1/8"
i started out with minimal rod travel and moved up to almost maximum, every time starting the motor and trying to engage. i would put pressure against the shifter and slowly press the pedal. the gear won't engage until the very end of the stroke, barely, with the master adjusted all the way. this tells me i might not be overextending the clutch assy. if i was, i should have been able to engage the gear before the pedal traveled all the way. how much should the pressure plate travel? as in, how much does the slave need to travel? maybe i can calculate the exact travel of the master. i read on a sticky that a 3/4" master should travel about .65"
on the bench, the master kept pressure. i will try the new master out tonight.
i'm not sure how i can pop the slave without even having the pressure plate disengaged all the way.
edit: also
i'm not sure what you mean by this? shorten the rod and see if i can get into gear? if so, then no. nothing.
i started out with minimal rod travel and moved up to almost maximum, every time starting the motor and trying to engage. i would put pressure against the shifter and slowly press the pedal. the gear won't engage until the very end of the stroke, barely, with the master adjusted all the way. this tells me i might not be overextending the clutch assy. if i was, i should have been able to engage the gear before the pedal traveled all the way. how much should the pressure plate travel? as in, how much does the slave need to travel? maybe i can calculate the exact travel of the master. i read on a sticky that a 3/4" master should travel about .65"
on the bench, the master kept pressure. i will try the new master out tonight.
i'm not sure how i can pop the slave without even having the pressure plate disengaged all the way.
edit: also
i'm not sure what you mean by this? shorten the rod and see if i can get into gear? if so, then no. nothing.