Tick master adjustments
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 249
Likes: 8
From: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Tick master adjustments Hey guys,
Just installed a tick master & speed bleeder last week.
I bench bled the master with DOT 4 and then bled the slave with the speed bleeder, first underneath the car into a can, then both near and inside the reservoir, both times with bleeder submerged in DOT 4...by doing this, I'm almost certain there's no air in the system...
Adjustments started with 2-3 inches of pedal travel, and tested and adjusted until the clutch pedal ended up level with the brake pedal...this seems to be where the car drives best, however still getting some notchy shifts and clutch pedal will still stick about halfway after high rpm 3-4 shift...
This is definately an improvement over the stock master, but I want to completely get rid of notchy shifts and pedal sticking before I make the 2 hour drive to the track...
Do you guys think I'll be safe adjusting the master a tad higher than where it is, bleed again, and see what that gets me, or will I just damage the stock pressure plate?
Just installed a tick master & speed bleeder last week.
I bench bled the master with DOT 4 and then bled the slave with the speed bleeder, first underneath the car into a can, then both near and inside the reservoir, both times with bleeder submerged in DOT 4...by doing this, I'm almost certain there's no air in the system...
Adjustments started with 2-3 inches of pedal travel, and tested and adjusted until the clutch pedal ended up level with the brake pedal...this seems to be where the car drives best, however still getting some notchy shifts and clutch pedal will still stick about halfway after high rpm 3-4 shift...
This is definately an improvement over the stock master, but I want to completely get rid of notchy shifts and pedal sticking before I make the 2 hour drive to the track...
Do you guys think I'll be safe adjusting the master a tad higher than where it is, bleed again, and see what that gets me, or will I just damage the stock pressure plate?
The stock pressure plate is the problem imho with it not fully disengaging from heat as the additional power you're making is probably causing the clutch to slightly slip. I would call Tick to confirm, but I believe you can adjust the Master another 1" higher than the brake pedal and still not preload the clutch. Hope that helps, Chris
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 249
Likes: 8
From: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
I think I got it worked out, I pulled the pedal spring out, adjusted the master one more turn so the clutch is just a tad higher than the brake, gave it one more bleed and then went for a drive...pedal doesn't stick anymore! and shifts are much smoother...I can finally DRIVE the car again 
I just wanted to try this out before I went with a whole new clutch setup...I don't expect my clutch to last a lifetime, but I want to get as much use out of it as I can.
However, when it comes time for a new setup, I'm strongly leaning towards a Monster level 2, I hear a lot of good about your products
Thanks for the info Chris!
I just wanted to try this out before I went with a whole new clutch setup...I don't expect my clutch to last a lifetime, but I want to get as much use out of it as I can.
However, when it comes time for a new setup, I'm strongly leaning towards a Monster level 2, I hear a lot of good about your products
Thanks for the info Chris!
