t56 problems..
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t56 problems..
Ok so I know this is a topic that is beat to death on here ive searched a lot trying to figure out the issue on here yet I still have a few questions. So I have a 2001 Trans Am WS6, I had an issue with the clutch grabbing near the floor for about two days then it wouldn't come out of first gear.. From what I read on here check fluid mine was clear when I bought the car two weeks ago I checked it again after the issues and it was black so that led me to believe it was a bad clutch master. I replaced it and I also did the drill mod. I had bench bled the master then installed and bled the system again for around a half hour. Now the way I bled it was my dad pumped up the clutch until hard then held and I opened the slave bleeder. Took the car out and it was fine under normal driving engagement near the middle, however under harsh conditions say getting on it 1st to 2nd was great went 2nd to 3rd and could not get in third clutch fell to the floor... after my rpm came down it was fine clutch was up good pressure and good grab in the middle. Now ive read that to bleed the clutch right you do not pump it my mistake.. instead you push it to the floor crack the bleeder then release it and push down bleed release ect... is this true? Do you do that until the pedal is hard or do you have to pump it again to get it hard? Also read some write up on bleeding it with a spark plug boot and a hose but I didn't quite understand it.
thank you in advance for any help with my issues..
thank you in advance for any help with my issues..
#2
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The plug boot and hose is to continuously circulate fluid through the system so air can come out of the fluid. If the bleeder is just barely cracked open and requires pressure to push the fluid through, but doesn't allow much fluid to pull back into the slave, that will kind of one-way valve it and in the end, you'll have no air. Assuming new fluid and good master / slave, you'll have a great operating clutch after doing it.
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The plug boot and hose is to continuously circulate fluid through the system so air can come out of the fluid. If the bleeder is just barely cracked open and requires pressure to push the fluid through, but doesn't allow much fluid to pull back into the slave, that will kind of one-way valve it and in the end, you'll have no air. Assuming new fluid and good master / slave, you'll have a great operating clutch after doing it.