Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Strangest Clutch Problems???

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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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Default Strangest Clutch Problems???

I've got a LT1 t56 giving me some hokey problems. She sat for a few days after being driven with no issues then I got in to go somewhere and after driving for a few miles i noticed the clutch was a little sloppy on disengagement and pedal return. Couldnt hold the clutch pedal down without it slowly re engaging the clutch until even with the pedal all the way to the floor the clutch was fully engaged.

Then the other day backing out of my driveway to go across the street and check the slave cylinder out I lost brake pedal for a moment and it came back and since then my clutch has acted like normal. Im a little at a loss for what could have caused what I was experiencing and dont want to have it happen again. What should I check/replace? Any input helps, I know motors, not hydraulics lol
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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Dang it...he does note this being an LT1...not an LS1. Sorry I missed that. Updates below!

You are seeing one of a few possible causes. First, have you noticed any fluid leaking under the car or on the fire-wall. Is the fluid in the reservoir dark or discolored? I would bet that it is and I suggest flushing and refilling the system to see if that provides improvement. Have you checked to see if the Fork or pivot are damaged in any way? Are the hydraulics on the car original or have you replaced them recently?

Last edited by SPEC-01; Aug 29, 2013 at 04:03 PM.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by projectbirdshot
I've got a LT1 t56
Originally Posted by SPEC-01
. You can disconnect the quick-connect between the Master and Slave and then apply easy bust constant pressure to the pedal. If the pedal drops then the master is passing fluid inside the cylinder. Try these things out and let me know what you find. Thanks!
OP has a LT1 "pull" clutch. hydraulics don't have a "quick" disconnect. Roll pin will releae the hydraulic line from slave

OP

either air in hydraulics as a result of heat as SPEC advises or failing MC or slave.

if the hydraulics are old and especially if any sign of fluid leaking either at MC or slave I would just buy a replacement system for $125 from a place like rockauto.com.
Other options for hydraulics are TICK or Mcleod MC's with "adjustable" MC. You still need to use a stock slave and you would then need to bench bleed both the new slave & MC then attach then pump the slave by hand from under the car to get the last air bubbles out

your current issue is not going to get better by itself.

you could suck out the old fluid in resovoir, replace, drive for a few days, do same thing again to try and "replace" the current fluid but if there is a leak or MC is passing fluid....your only option is to replace that part.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 08:21 PM
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Yeah the slave finally gave out in awesome fashion today as I was trying to 'bleed' it exploding fluid everywhere, and my master was making a god awful squealing noise so I just bought both new. I was just a bit startled that the brakes went out and clutch came back considering the two are, aside from next to each other, completely unrelated lol.

This car has some serious demons in it.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 11:19 PM
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if you were "bleeding" by pumping the MC...the slave will shiat itself if not attached to bell housing.

you got new hydraulic, assume new sealed system, so it should be plug & play and no bleeding required to install
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