Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

reverse wooooeeeessss

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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Default reverse wooooeeeessss

just wondering what you all think about shaving the 1/8th" off the shift fork so it engages the gear better. I believe that is why it wouldn't go into gear even before i started to really grind em when I HAD to go in reverse for whatever reason. I can get it in reverse if i bend the shifter because of the force being put on it and the car is on flat ground, otherwise seems useless (especially if it's icy/snowy out). pics are at http://flic.kr/p/h9tsdg please let me know what you think about the shape of gears/synchro, also for reverse should i buy nylon pads for the shift fork, or go with bronze? does it matter... obviously my old nylon ones are gone. just looking for a list from someone w/experience this is my first time tearing a gearbox apart.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 08:58 PM
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Keys are broken, Syncro teeth are blunt, can you flip it to the other side or has it already been flipped?
Reverse gear teeth are blunt
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 11:29 PM
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Default fliped

It's already been flipped the other side looks worse imo I've been checking prices for synchro and gear~300.00. I've already shaved the 1/8" off as I've ordered keys/pads/snap ring so just waiting for parts then i spose i'll put it back together and see if it will work. Would filing the teeth to make them more the shape they came in make them better, or would i just be removing material that would make the end results worse? If it engages the 1/8th that's supposedly missing It would seem to me that it should work fine, but I really don't know.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 01:39 AM
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Mine looked the same before I shaved the fork, worked great after the the fix and it's been like that for years.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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Default sweet!

thnx for replys guys, the shave worked amazing! reverse is so sweet now, like butter. After i got it together (using new clutch slave) it doesn't seem to be bleeding correct. it drives and i get good resistance at the pedal but when i 'bleed' it NOTHING comes out no fluid movement the fluid also doesn't drop but when the pedal is pumped you can see it flowing in and out of the reservoir. so i wont be using it don't want to mess anything up that i just fixed, hah. might take it to the shop for hydros or just drive it i donno yet. will have to research the problem a bit more unless any one has also had this problem? could the slave i just bought be bad? if that were the case wouldn't it not engage the gears correctly? I've changed the slave twice w/in the last 2 years the other time it was apparent it was out because fluid was poring out of the bell housing. and I've replaced the master once which still feels good doesn't look like it's leaking as I've pulled the grommet off inside the cab or at least it's not letting fluid out maybe letting air in? any ideas on my new dilemma would be awesome thnx again for suggestions.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 01:32 AM
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Glad it worked out for ya, here is a link to the fix so some people know what we are talking about lol http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...6-reverse.html

As for your slave issue, if its not spilling out oil and seams to work proper maybe give it a try for a bit and see how it goes.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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Default Driven

was driving first day *came out of the garage* was warmer and worked fine, took it to frame shop to straighten axle *doing all this cuz the car was hit and run* and top end of clutch is squishy, bottom seems solid. When i was bleeding the clutch after putting transmission back in or trying to it did drop a little fluid before it 'plugged' or w/e i donno. just looking for ideas. thanks for the post on the site to show how to shave the shift fork that's an amazing fix and if you mess up another shift fork is only 20. ; P
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