its hard to get my mn12 in every gear even after i replaced my master cylinder. going to try and rebleed it again tomorrow morning to see if i still have air in the lines but just wanted to start shopping and pricing rebuild kits. i want to do it once and be done with it because after buying three trannys in the for sale section over here im tired of getting burned. looking for it to handle 450-500rwtq i tried t56rebuilds.com but their site is off.

i have a hurst shifter but its a pain in the *** to get it in reverse from day one. but over the passed week i had a hard time getting it in ever gear so thats when i swapped a new master cylinder in today. i was running out of light so i rushed the bleeding process and still has the same problem again ill try and rebleed tomorrow morning. i have a for textralia oz700

parts only for the stage 2 is 799. was going to price a local tranny shop to see if they could install it and compare prices.

T56 Transmission Rebuild Package Level 2 "PARTS ONLY" for 1997-2007 Corvette & 2004-2006 GTO
If you are wanting to rebuild your T56 yourself or have your own shop do it, we offer T56 rebuild packages from mild to wild to suit your C5 Corvette or GTO! If your car is making under 600ft/lbs of torque than we reccomend the level 2 rebuld package, however if you are making more than 600ft/lbs rear wheel then you may want to consider upgrading to the level 3 Extreme "Viper" rebuild kit which is good over 1,000ft/lbs of torque!!! And remeber if all of this is to confusing, just give us a call and we will be more than happy to go over it with you...

This rebuild package will include the following:
-Carbon Fiber Synchronizer Blocker Ring Kit
-1-2 & 3-4 Billet Keys
-1-2 & 3-4 Bronze Shift Pads
-5-6 & Reverse Keys
-5-6 & Reverse Shift Pads
-Front Input Seal
-Isolator Cup

texas motorsports could put those parts in plus 3-4 steel shift fork for 1499 with exchange of core.

 

this is from Texas drivetrain peformance
Stage 2 - $1000 (highly recommended)
All the above plus
-Billet 1-2 keys
-Billet 3-4 keys
-Bronze 1-2-3-4 fork pads
-Bronze shifter bushing
-Steel 3-4 shift fork

*Prices include all parts & labor for this one

 

Get your clutch working properly before jumping into a rebuild. It's one thing to junk a part or two on a box with miles on it. It's another to do it on a fresh build.

If your pedal is down and the vehicle is on level ground in 1st or reverse and it creeps, your clutch isn't working properly. "in every gear" also points to the clutch.

 

yea the car moves sometimes in first, i have to get on the breaks and it trys to stall sometimes. ill rebleed today then if that doesnt work ill put a ls6 or ls7 clutch i have laying around and see if that does it.

 

Is this a stock clutch,used or aftermarket?

 

Did you install the Tex clutch originally?

 

yea it came from my brothers car i think i may of bent the teeth a little while i put my rebuilt ls1 back in the car on not level driveway. but the car has been running for a couple months and i just had this issue the last week.

 

will it be a noticeable bend i could see when i pull the clutch off that i could fix myself?

 

im going to wait until my 2 seals and o-rings come in early next week so i could fix my rear end leak the same time. until then the car is going to sit in the driveway but was wondering if the clutch is fixable or should i put another one in?

 

If you bent the diaphragm springs it should be noticeable and given you issues from the beginning, you'd have to talk to Textralia about replacement parts. I can only answer questions about a Monster Chris 817-750-2000

 

thanks bud, thinking i might just put a ls6 or ls7 i have laying around since i dont plan on launching the car or drag radials anytime soon.