Time for a rebuild (T56)
Time for a rebuild (T56) Well a while back the tranny got stuck in 4th after a pass down the strip.. I had to get it out as I was an hour from home so I forced it out (I know I know.. not a good idea) Anyway, now it goes in 5th, but pops out when you let the clutch out. So it's absolutely overdue for a rebuild.
My plans for the car are really an absolute max of about 550whp/tq for the forseeable future. Right now it is just about 400whp/tq. So for my goals it seems I'm leaving a little room to grow. And for mileage.. I've gone from 29k miles to 42k miles in 6 years and now that I've got myself a new gsxr 1000 I doubt that usage is gonna go up.
From all I've seen thus far I like the idea of a Tick Stage 2 with new bearings for around $1500.
So I'm just looking for some feedback from guys who went with a more basic rebuild like the stage 2 or comparable from any other sponsor in that price range on basically what kind of life did you get out of it with what kind of use and with how much power? Or would those with experience recommend another route.
Thanks for any help!
My plans for the car are really an absolute max of about 550whp/tq for the forseeable future. Right now it is just about 400whp/tq. So for my goals it seems I'm leaving a little room to grow. And for mileage.. I've gone from 29k miles to 42k miles in 6 years and now that I've got myself a new gsxr 1000 I doubt that usage is gonna go up.
From all I've seen thus far I like the idea of a Tick Stage 2 with new bearings for around $1500.
So I'm just looking for some feedback from guys who went with a more basic rebuild like the stage 2 or comparable from any other sponsor in that price range on basically what kind of life did you get out of it with what kind of use and with how much power? Or would those with experience recommend another route.
Thanks for any help!
Also, I'm a little concerned with how I shift the car. I am a little bigger of a guy who frequents the gym. Could the leverage I'm putting on the stock hurst shifter be hurting anything?
If the clutch is fully disengaging then as long as your timing is right, man handling the shifter should not be a problem as long as it has built in stops to prevent over extending. Are you on the stock clutch currently?
I'm running a diamond stage 2 w/ tick master currently. So far so good.
I'd double check the adjustment of the Tick master with a rev test to make sure car doesn't creep as a clutch that is dragging can do damage to the trans as well. Does the pedal change after a hard run? As if it is slipping that can create extra heat which can cause disengagement issues down track after a hard run, hope that helps.
I'd double check the adjustment of the Tick master with a rev test to make sure car doesn't creep as a clutch that is dragging can do damage to the trans as well. Does the pedal change after a hard run? As if it is slipping that can create extra heat which can cause disengagement issues down track after a hard run, hope that helps.
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Generally it shouldn't be a problem, but that excessive force is being applied somewhere in the shifting linkage, weak components in that, plastic pads and isolator cup bushing can fracture or develop worn areas and lead to excessive play in the shifting linkage, and that's what it sounds like is going on. Easiest thing to check, pull the shifter and pull out the isolator cup bushing, it may be broken. Bronze aftermarket units are now available.
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I have a built D&D Performance Viperized T-56 for sale under the thread name "Built T-56 Swap Kit". Quicktime steel bell, 31 spline viper output shaft, all of the typical internal upgrades and a BMR cross member with torque arm relocation. Rated to 700 Lb-ft. 3,000 miles on it. Asking $3,700 for trans, bell, cross member, and the power tower shifter that came with it. Will negotiate some on the price, but will not tolerate lowballing.