Hey guys, I recently got my LS swap on the road and having some trouble, im getting a grind in high rpm shifting, if I double clutch its much easier but ALL gears still feel notchy, when stopped going into 1st I get resistance and the car creeps a inch or so then stops, if im cruising down the road, keep my clutch down and go through random gears its pretty notchy, if I hold it down and bounce from 2nd and 3rd over and over it grinds on the upshift to 3rd. All gears feel notchy parked at idle. Clutch is a spec 3 kit with matched flywheel, I did not use the slave shim, tick mc which has been thoroughly bled . Clutch action is in the middle of the pedal throw. Should I put the shim in?
Chance of air in the system still? Are my syncros headed out the door?

 

Your clutch is not releasing properly. If your pedal is is too low.

 

Thinking about putting the shim in, thoughts fellas?

 

Well I put the shim in and absolutely no change, still hard to put in gear at idle, grinds going into 2nd and 3rd in higher rpm, no grinding in any downshifting but notchy and can hear the box starting to whine on a very early downshift, all gears feel notchy with resistance. I've seen a few posts about guys using ARP flywheel bolts that contact the clutch disk causing disengagement trouble, I am running ARP hardware, anybody chime in on this? Air still in my hydraulics? Please help before I just decide to throw a match a the damn thing!!

 

Update: did a jack stand test and the tire didnt movebst all with the car reved to 6k, so can eliminate clutch issues, now I drove it today and while shiting to 3rd under normal driving it will grind, but if I redline 2nd gear ans speedshift 3rd it goes right in? Why is this? I rwad something about bad motor mounts causeing binding but im not sure, can anybody chime in on why 3rd is acting like this?

 

Sorry just saw this thread. Shim not needed, which you figured out. My first thought is to lengthen the turnbuckle on the master to see if it improves - raising the pedal height. Mine is about an inch below the brake pedal. I can see you've done what you can to check out the clutch, and that's likely not it, but easy to try.

I have seen local transmission guys talk about simple T56 repairs for "intermittent grinding going into third" on repair ads. Possibly that 3-4 fork is starting to go. When you do even a stage 1 upgrade to a T56, they upgrade the forks.

I guess it's easier to try a motor mount before going into the trans, but that sounds like throwing parts at it

 

I'm thinking 3rd gear blocker ring is toast...