A4-M6 Conversion coming soon.....
A4-M6 Conversion coming soon..... I just purchased a '00 T/A from a friend of mine. The car has unknown mods on it. It's got an auto in it right now that's been nothing but problems. It cracked the extension housing once, then 3rd and 4th went out of it.
I picked up a T56 with everything needed for the conversion off ebay for what i figure was a pretty decent deal. Just tore down the trans to upgrade the 3/4 shift fork, as well as install the Tick Level 2 rebuild kit. I figured that since I'm going to have everything apart I might as well put it together right the first time. So, I ordered the Tick master cylinder and monster Level 3 clutch kit so that I don't have to upgrade later as the engine gets stronger.
I'm on the road for work right now, but will update this thread with pictures and any strange things I might run into while doing all the installs.
Wish me luck.....lol
I picked up a T56 with everything needed for the conversion off ebay for what i figure was a pretty decent deal. Just tore down the trans to upgrade the 3/4 shift fork, as well as install the Tick Level 2 rebuild kit. I figured that since I'm going to have everything apart I might as well put it together right the first time. So, I ordered the Tick master cylinder and monster Level 3 clutch kit so that I don't have to upgrade later as the engine gets stronger.
I'm on the road for work right now, but will update this thread with pictures and any strange things I might run into while doing all the installs.
Wish me luck.....lol
search my user name for my conversion writeup, covers everything you will need to make it function like they factory. also dont forget to either weld or rivet in a reinforcement plate for the clutch mc...its explained in my writeup
I read a couple of writeups on the conversion, but I don't remember seeing anything about the mc reinforcement. Thanks for the heads up.
Good luck with the swap, autos have their own perks, but you will be more than happy with the setup you bought. We have rave reviews from customers everyday about our masters and our transmission rebuild kits. If you have any questions or need any tech help with anything during the process, give us a shout at support@tickperformance.com. We have tech guys that will be more than happy to help with any question you have.
As promised, here's an update in my conversion. I started by removing the center counsel and all of the automatic hardware. I actually pulled the drivers seat out to give myself more room to work under the dash.
Next I temoved the stead colum like almost everyone recommends. This made getting the pedal assembly out a snap. After I had the auto pedals out I cut out the rubber outline when the clutch master will instal and put the manual pedal assembly in to mark the hike locations.
After marking the holes and removing the pedal assembly I drilled the mounting holes and removed the brake booster to allow for more room and easier access while installing the Tick MC.
I spent the rest of the afternoon/evening cussing and dropping tools while removing the bell housing bolts. Finally got them all out though. Tomorrow I'll pull the Trans mount loose and drop out the auto.
I'll get some pics uploaded once I get them off my phone and onto the computer.
Next I temoved the stead colum like almost everyone recommends. This made getting the pedal assembly out a snap. After I had the auto pedals out I cut out the rubber outline when the clutch master will instal and put the manual pedal assembly in to mark the hike locations.
After marking the holes and removing the pedal assembly I drilled the mounting holes and removed the brake booster to allow for more room and easier access while installing the Tick MC.
I spent the rest of the afternoon/evening cussing and dropping tools while removing the bell housing bolts. Finally got them all out though. Tomorrow I'll pull the Trans mount loose and drop out the auto.
I'll get some pics uploaded once I get them off my phone and onto the computer.
Did mine a few years ago, I swear the hardest part was bleeding the damn system once it was all put together! It was probably one of the easiest projects I've done, considering.
Good luck! And good choice getting the adj master, I did the free mod on mine and I'm adjusting it nearly weekly.
Good luck! And good choice getting the adj master, I did the free mod on mine and I'm adjusting it nearly weekly.
I figured since I was already spending the money I might as well spring for the good stuff and only have to do it once. I'm surprised at how easy it has been. I should finish it up tomorrow, would have been done already, but I lost a day to rebuilding the transmission before I could install it. All that's left is the wiring, bleeding the system and outing the steering column back in.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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if not already get ticks speed bleeder line also. I bleed my clutch and change the fluid in a one man operation. with the speed bleeder. I, as you did it right the first time. with a tick monster package. never knew the problems with the stock parts. everything works great. manual sure woke my car up! like instant on right out the driveway!! good luck on your swap. found all my info right here at ls one tech. hoorahh!! the oldman.....
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Verdad Gallardo The speed bleeder line came with the kit that I ordered. I bled the clutch from the drivers seat.....took a long damn time, but I got done and LOVE the feel of the Tick adjustable MC. I just routed the bleeder line up through the lower shifter boot and then down under the center counsel. The end of it sits right next to the front inside seat bolt.
Everything has gone really well with the swap. I got all the pig tail connectors in last night and will be installing them when I get back from this work trip in a few weeks. Then I just need a tune, and to complete the 500 miles of break-in for the clutch.
Everything has gone really well with the swap. I got all the pig tail connectors in last night and will be installing them when I get back from this work trip in a few weeks. Then I just need a tune, and to complete the 500 miles of break-in for the clutch.